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Moschino literally destroys the rules of fashion on the first day of Milan Fashion Week

Moschino literally destroys the rules of fashion on the first day of Milan Fashion Week
Moschino literally destroys the rules of fashion on the first day of Milan Fashion Week


MILAN– Milan Fashion Week, reserved mainly for menswear previews, opened Friday with two mixed collections, underscoring that the old rules of the calendar no longer apply.

The week only features 20 shows, which should give time to think about where fashion is headed. Moschino opened with a show combining menswear for next summer and womenswear for 2025, followed by Canadian designer Dsquared2 with a full collection of men's and women's clothing.

Highlights from Friday's show:


Adrian Appiolaza took the rules and literally shredded them in his second season as creative director of Moschino.

The idea of ​​freedom of expression through clothing is what I want to bring to the future of Moschino, which is linked to the original DNA, Appiolaza said backstage. It's not a question of gender. It's not about nationality. It's really about feeling comfortable, dressing the way you want to and not the way you should.

The Argentinian designer reads our collective minds as the summer season approaches in the northern hemisphere, tapping into the desire to break free from the office routine and reach a dream destination. Along the way, daydreams take over and familiar objects shift.

Appiolaza creates a shimmering reservoir with large paperclips. A jacket is covered in textile post-its of forgotten tasks. Another becomes the office worker's survival jacket, with slots for pens, notepad, credit cards, ID badge, charging cables, nothing is hidden; this later becomes an adventure jacket with field guides and a magnifying glass.

Suits and trench coats are deconstructed into dresses. Then they are shredded, as if to say: Enough. The straw that broke the camel's back: an airliner perched on a hat. Then a real straw skirt.

There are safari clothes, a beach sarong, skirts that act as postcards, knitwear decorated with a soccer ball motif, a blazer printed with a still life of an Italian table: tomatoes blackberries, a bottle of Chianti and bread, worn with a frayed skirt. on pants.

The collection confidently harnesses the ironic and playful DNA of the fashion houses, with a fresh and irreverent touch that is sure to inspire a smile. A suit shirt comes with an ink stain. A glistening pizza stain adorns a tank top, worn with an Italian tricolor skirt adorned with soccer balls. Brimmed hats for men are worn in triplicate, as if resized and multiplied by a fashion photocopier.

They're all explorers, these characters, on a journey of self-discovery, Appiolaza said.




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