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Moschino shakes up the rules of fashion and Dsquared2 raises the temperature on the first day of Milan Fashion Week

Moschino shakes up the rules of fashion and Dsquared2 raises the temperature on the first day of Milan Fashion Week
Moschino shakes up the rules of fashion and Dsquared2 raises the temperature on the first day of Milan Fashion Week


MILAN (AP) Reserved primarily for menswear previews, Milan Fashion Week opened Friday with two mixed collections, underscoring that the old calendar rules no longer apply.

MILAN (AP) Reserved mainly for menswear previews, Milan Fashion Week opened Friday with two mixed collections, emphasizing that the old calendar rules no longer apply.

The week only features 20 shows, which should give time to think about where fashion is headed. Moschino opened with a show combining menswear for next summer and womenswear for 2025, followed by Canadian fashion house Dsquared2 with a full collection of men's and women's clothing.

Highlights from Friday's show:

Lost and Found at Moschino

In his second season as creative director of Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza took the rules and literally shredded them.

The idea of ​​freedom of expression through clothing is what I want to bring to the future of Moschino, which is linked to the original DNA, Appiolaza said backstage. It's not a question of gender. It's not about nationality. It's really about feeling comfortable, dressing the way you want to and not the way you should.

The Argentinian designer reads our collective minds as the summer season approaches in the northern hemisphere, tapping into the desire to break free from the office routine and reach a dream destination. Along the way, daydreams take over and familiar objects shift.

Appiolaza creates a shimmering reservoir with large paperclips. A jacket is covered in textile post-its of forgotten tasks. Another becomes the office worker's survival jacket, with slots for pens, notepad, credit cards, ID badge, charging cables, nothing is hidden; this later becomes an adventure jacket with field guides and a magnifying glass.

Suits and trench coats are deconstructed into dresses. Then they are shredded, as if to say: Enough. The straw that broke the camel's back: an airliner perched on a hat. Then a real straw skirt.

There are safari clothes, a beach sarong, skirts that act as postcards, knitwear decorated with a soccer ball motif, a blazer printed with a still life of an Italian table: tomatoes blackberries, a bottle of Chianti and bread, worn with a frayed skirt. on pants.

The collection confidently harnesses the ironic and playful DNA of the fashion houses, with a fresh and irreverent touch that is sure to inspire a smile. A suit shirt comes with an ink stain. A glistening pizza stain adorns a tank top, worn with an Italian tricolor skirt adorned with soccer balls. Brimmed hats for men are worn in triplicate, as if resized and multiplied by a fashion photocopier.

They're all explorers, these characters, on a journey of self-discovery, Appiolaza said.

Dsquared2 raises the temperature

canadian conceive twins Dean and Dan Caten raised the temperature with a collection for men and women for their fashion house Dsquared2, focused on suggestive and transgressive looks.

The Catens energized the fashionista theater with a troupe of male dancers grooving in unison under red lights, dressed in see-through rubber tank tops and black pants, in what the twins called bodacious theatricality.

The collection for well-polished leather and denim, sheers and sequins that accentuated and revealed the shape. One denim dress featured just two panels, held in place by sequinned vines. Asymmetrical, off-the-shoulder knits highlighted well-defined busts. Sequined bikinis were worn over athletic number shirts and short shorts. Cascading chiffons revealed bondage harnesses and sparkling bralettes. Sheer boxers gleamed over satin shorts, ready for the ring. The denim has been treated with a silver finish. It's a sensual wardrobe meant for partying.

It's sensual and sexual, Dan Caten said backstage. It's hot Dsquared2, so we're feeling a little spicy.

We bring love, Dean added. We bring a dream. We bring theater, which is an escape from reality, because reality as we know it is somewhat reality.

Colleen Barry, Associated Press




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