Fashion

Milan Fashion Week: Prada projects youthful optimism, not escapism, into a turbulent world

MILAN– Without making an open statement, Milanese designers expressed their concern about global turbulence through their collections.

Miuccia Prada said she wanted to project optimism. Because even though times are bad, I think it was the right thing to do, she said backstage at the Prada show. It does not encourage escape. Finally, I offer something positive, but I don't like escapism.

Not using the platform to comment would be irresponsible, said the creators of the Simon Cracker brand, born 14 years ago to contrast the dominant fashion system with upcycled collections.

They dedicated their collection, titled A Matter of Principle, to children who are victims of questions of principle.

Some highlights from the third day on Sunday of predominantly male previews for spring-summer 2025:

The Prada men's collection plays with the idea of imperfection. But nothing is as it seems.

Tops, jackets and hoodies appear shrunken, more than shortened. The overcoats have three-quarter sleeves. It’s a sort of inherited wardrobe, already lived in. Pleats are part of construction, as technical as a ply. Pointed shirt collars are held in the air by threads. The pants feature fake belts, low and below the waist. Belts are also present as decoration on bags, as if to close them.

Miuccia Prada, the brand's co-creative director with Raf Simons, said playing with the idea of real versus fake “is very contemporary,” calling such details an invitation to look at clothes more closely, more close. .

The neutral color palette is punctuated by feminine and warm shades: a bright green cardigan, a floral blouse, a turquoise coat, which, according to the designers, suggest a mother's or grandmother's wardrobe.

We wanted (the collection) to already feel alive, like the clothes you're already living with, Simons said backstage.

Prada models emerged from a simple white cabin and descended into the showroom along a runway flanked by a white fence. The designers describe the setting as essential, utopian and youthful all at once.

Here, youth is the hope, it is the future, Prada said. At this time, we thought it was also relevant to encourage young people to think about our world.

So many knots to untie in the world, so many knots holding together Simon Cracker's latest collection of mostly recycled clothing.

For Spring/Summer 2025, designers Filippo Biraghi and Simone Botte assembled their collection of recycled clothing scraps using laces and drawstrings to create skirts from tennis shirt inserts, dresses from knitwear and restructured jackets. Each piece is unique.

The edgy color palette of black, purple, sea blue and acid green was achieved through dyeing, with each material reacting differently to the process.

It's a way of telling what's happening in the world, without being too explicit, Biraghi said backstage. It would be irresponsible not to be political at this time.

The brand's 14-year-old name signifies that something is broken and cracked in the fashion system. They embrace imperfection as part of the beauty of their designs, made from forgotten or discarded clothing and deadstock fabrics, this time including textiles from Italian sportswear brand Australian.

Australian, which is gaining ground with club audiences, has also created a capsule collection of neon black and technical clothing for Simon Cracker, its first production line. Doc Martens supplied the shoes, which the designers personalized with pins, badges and costume jewelry.

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