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How to Dress in Style for an African Safari and Vacation

How to Dress in Style for an African Safari and Vacation

 


I associate the journey from Cape Town to Cairo with great efforts doomed to failure, undertaken on foot or by bicycle. A quest undertaken by ambitious types from the Royal Geographical Society seeking fame and fortune while ultimately seeking empire under the camouflage of science. Well, to hell with that. I don't see that these hikes have brought anything good. However, I am impressed by the grandeur of a mission, by the idea of ​​a journey as a sort of opus. So, in the first week of April, I set out to ruin myself financially and embark on my own three-month journey from tail to top of Africa to tackle our romanticized image of traveler and maybe also crush some of the situation. khaki-clad tales of days gone by.

After all, that's what I do. Since mid-2020, when I got a contract to write a biography of the late American artist Peter Beard and came to Africa to do some research, travel writing and photography have more or less been my daily job. And one of my recurring theses about this beat is that much of the way we travel today was influenced by the way those old Victorians saw and moved through the world. Consider travel as a means of acquisition, extraction, for example. Go on a journey for a memory, whether it is a material object, or a story, or even simply a feeling of self-enrichment, as the clichés in travel brochures like to encourage us. So I thought maybe I could unfold some of the stories we tell ourselves about the world, about our place in it, into a personal saga. Maybe I'll even take some nice photos along the way, find some travel stories and maybe end up putting together a book.

a person wearing a red hat and sunglasses

Chris Wallace

In the salt marshes of Jacks Camp in Botswana. Jacket by J. Mueser.

The trip got off to an auspicious start, with an upgrade to first class on the United flight, the only direct flight between New York and Cape Town. And while I wish I could do like Barry Sanders did and score a touchdown like you were there before, there's something about getting into a living room or the front of the bus that makes me lose my mind. head and behave like the child in Big, if the child is in Big drank all his weight in Champagne.

In Cape Town, I thought about how sea travelers during the spice trade viewed the port as a place to resupply for food and drink and decided to use it as an excuse to overindulge in good food and good wine at hand. From Cape Town, I flew to Windhoek, Namibia, where I rented a temperamental Toyota and began driving, sliding and climbing across the Namibian desert in a sort of frantic pilgrimage to see the Dune-scape wonderful world of landscape there.

A little more dusty and sun-drenched from my troubles, I returned to South Africa to Johannesburg, this time where I encountered a new suit that the J. Mueser guys in New York had made and sent by mail to me. Suit in hand, I boarded a luxury family train, the Rovos Rail, in Pretoria, bound for Victoria Falls. If you've seen an Agatha Christie adaptation, you might have a good idea of ​​train cars. But you have to imagine them swinging and rolling through Zimbabwe, past trailside baobabs and baboons, to get a sense of the wild wonder of this stage of the journey.

a man standing in front of a helicopter

Author

All dressed and ready for a thrill in Cape Town. Shirt by Drakes. Pants by Rick Owens.

Then I came to a great crack in the Earth, one of the natural wonders of the world: the roaring smoke, as it is called in Tonga. Victoria Falls is a bit of a headache (especially for those of us who are absolutely afraid of heights). From Zambia, I crossed the border into Botswana and took a four-seater Cessna to the Kalahari Desert and a place called Jacks Camp. This legendary old hunting lodge is located in the Makgadikgadi salt flats, a big nothing, as one of the guides called it, and a great place to play with the meerkats and go for a mountain bike ride. From Jacks, I flew due north, towards the geological marvel that is the Okavango Delta, a huge floodplain teeming with game and some of the best safari lodges I have ever seen. On my last morning in Botswana, at a tent lodge called Tuludi, in a mopane forest, I spent an incredible few hours watching a family of leopards play together, then was escorted to a trail gravel landing by at least 200 elephants. Peter Beard liked to call these kinds of sightings the greatest spectacle on Earth. And I don't disagree. I almost don't miss seeing The guy who falls just in time at home right now.

As I traveled within the continent, airline and baggage allowances decreased significantly. And it occurred to me that I had brought way too much stuff and too many bags, partly because part of the impetus for this kind of trip, for me, is to build a world and to equip myself for this. Just ask Yves Saint Laurent, Ralph Lauren or Kim Jones: the idea of ​​gearing up for a safari is incredibly exciting, and so I went all in.

a truck with a flatbed

Chris Wallace

Sunset in the bush.

There was of course this J. Mueser linen suit in a mushroom tobacco color, complete with a matching military jacket. My oldest and dearest friend, Rick Owens, made my safari suit with a plaid overshirt in the same vein as Peter Beards' preppy version of the bush outfit and a pair of caramel cargo pants, as well as my basics, my t-shirts and my toiletry bag (of which I almost have the contents). travel now, a month and a half after the start of the trip).

But most of the weight in my tote bags from heritage luggage brand Ghurka has nothing to do with clothing. Instead, it's the '90s Nikon SLRs I insist on using and the 220 or so rolls of film I brought along, like an idiot. The only book I had with me was a gift from a friend in Johannesburg, about an overland journey from the eastern border of the Congo to the Atlantic.

And then there is my Globe-Trotter briefcase, which contains a Herms poncho, to resist the cold of morning safaris, as well as a bucket hat and a scarf at the same time; two more safari costumes, from Rick and Stffa; a Rick swimsuit; District Vision workout gear and sunglasses; and my beloved Jacques Marie Mage sunglasses.

a desert landscape with a bridge

Chris Wallace

A view from the Zannier Sonop observation deck in Namibia.

Also in this case is another J. Mueser suit, in olive cotton. Because man can't survive on bush clothes alone, and sometimes you have to look a little smarter, whether it's dressing for dinner on the train or going out on the town at Cape Town or, possibly, Cairo. But I'm not in Cairo yet. Instead, I'm right in the thick of it all, halfway through the journey, wondering what it all, the journey and the trappings, the clothes and the continent, could mean.

If, initially, I wanted to engage in some sort of conversation with the generation of travelers emboldened by the Royal Geographical Society, I am now delighted to think how differently I do travel to a Grogan or a Livingstone. If, at first, I thought I could take my own trip from Cape Town to Cairo with the glamor and glitz of Agatha Christie's golden age stories, as well as some of the bamboo adventures of a Patrick Leigh Fermor, In order to think about how travelers' habits, behaviors, and tastes have shaped our travels today, it may be too early to see the whole story halfway through a trip.

Right now, I'm only in the middle. The middle of the journey, the middle of this story and the middle of Africa. The circles are a great place. Every good story needs it.


Story and photos by Chris Wallace

Sources

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