Fashion
Review of JW Anderson's spring 2025 men's shows, fashion shows and ready-to-wear collections
“Irrational clothing” is as good a descriptor as any for T-shirts with colorful, inflated airbags at the hem, a tie almost as long and thick as a table runner, cardigans hand-knitted row houses resembling bricks and a belt. equipped with a semi-circular holder for cashmere fabric samples.
All of these elements were featured on JW Anderson's runway in Milan, the show living up to the trippy, “spaced out” vibe that designer Jonathan Anderson described at a press conference earlier in the day.
“It's very melancholy 'Twilight Zone,'” he said, referring to its show setting — a vast, bright space adorned with hundreds of hanging light bulbs — and a strong collection of oversized shapes, bouncy, squishy textures and wry humor.
The designer has redoubled his conviction that fashion should be a means of personal expression, of escape and of pushing the boundaries of gender and sartorial occasions.
Anderson raised many eyebrows early in his career when he came up with frilly shorts for men, which the Daily Mail crowned as “the stupidest outfit” of Fall 2013 Men's Fashion Week .
He gets what he deserves. Having recently attended the Primavera Sound music festival in Barcelona, Spain, Anderson was dazzled by the bold and creative outfits on display, including skimpy lingerie tops worn by men of all shapes and sizes.
“The clothing experimentation among the younger generations is incredible,” he enthused. “The outlook has changed within men's fashion and women's fashion… It's not just about luxury brands. It's about codes, identities, archetypes.
One could draw a direct line from Primavera to V-neck sweaters trimmed with silicone lace, but God knows where the idea of sagging satin pockets, like deflated balloons, hanging from overcoats, or giant cardigans came from roughly knitted with a 3D pattern. embossed texture.
No matter: all of them were a pleasure to watch.
The humor was there in the new Moccasin bag, directly inspired by the penny loafer, and its beautiful leather bikers, denim vests and bombers whose hems curved forward, evoking elbow pasta.
Anderson also revealed an unexpected collaboration with Guinness, splashing elaborate beadwork on sweaters and sweatshirts, some printed with a smiling moon face etched into the beer head, an image taken from early ads.
The capsule releases in November, and if you wear any of these conversation starters to the pub you just might win a free pint.
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