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A surf theme brought waves of bright colors and shorts galore.

A surf theme brought waves of bright colors and shorts galore.

 


For his spring 2025 men's show for Gucci, Sabato De Sarno focused on a theme little seen this European season: surfing.

There were colorful cabana shirts in GG jacquard, bowling styles in bold hibiscus and dolphin prints, low-cut, stretchy swim shoes, lots of cool sunglasses with foam straps anchoring them to or around the head neck, and short shorts galore.

Irish actor Paul Mescal, one of the main VIP guests, raised his eyebrows in his open blue shirt and black and white striped boxers, as if he had forgotten to finish dressing for the event at the museum of the Milan Triennale.

The show was colorful, energetic, very trendy with its long leather raincoats, but also distinctive to bypass the suede, linen and pastels seen on almost every show.

But is it enough to relaunch Gucci? Should a luxury fashion brand be identifiable by the theme it chose for the season and the cool products it produced, or by distinct brand codes?

De Sarno's show came Monday hours after his predecessor, Alessandro Michele, unveiled his first holiday creations for women and men as Valentino's new creative director, something not previously expected september.

This sparked front-row chatter that Michele had essentially released a dissident piece, drawing attention away from Gucci and inviting comparisons. Meanwhile, some online commenters accused Michele of simply transferring her retro-tinged Gucci aesthetic to Valentino.

Even if these scenarios are overly simplistic, ouch on both accounts.

It must be said that De Sarno's spring men's offering for Gucci was at times reminiscent of the monochrome outfits he used in his previous job at Valentino, where he was fashion director overseeing the men's and women's collections. We also saw cotton shirts transformed into puffy coats during his years in this Roman household.

In short, De Sarno still seems to be groping at Gucci. To his credit, he didn't rely heavily on logos or obvious branding, but instead displayed many striking designs in the trompe l'oeil vein. Striped rugby jerseys were stitched together with thousands of tiny, quivering square sequins, and long-sleeved polo shirts with millions of sequins arranged at angles that magically changed color as the model passed by.

“I’m not a stylist. I am a designer and I always draw, I choose the fabrics, the colors and the details,” De Sarno said backstage before the show.

Oddly, the word surfing did not appear in the collection notes, although behind the scenes De Sarno cited William Finnegan's book “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” as an inspiration, and the service press sent a vintage image of five men surfing a big wave.

The designer noted that color has always been key to his design process and aesthetic, and they were certainly distinctive in his spring men's collection, including acid greens, synthetic purples and a bright orange, as well as white, black and brown, perhaps the most recent. shadow of spring 2025.

“I like to play with them, looking for harmony or playing with contrasts and creating new combinations. Color, poplin and prints are expressions of summer for me,” he said, citing hibiscus as one of his favorites.

It is perhaps unfair to lock De Sarno into a specific method or aesthetic. Indeed, he said he chose the Finnegan book because the seemingly infinite ocean is a “path to freedom” and he takes his time building collections “without making big statements.”

“I feel very free right now,” he said.

— With contributions from Luisa Zargani

Sources

1/ https://Google.com/

2/ https://wwd.com/runway/mens-spring-2025/milan/gucci/review/

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