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Sarno's Sabato Unveils Color-Saturated Gucci Precision to Close Milan Fashion Week

Sarno's Sabato Unveils Color-Saturated Gucci Precision to Close Milan Fashion Week
Sarno's Sabato Unveils Color-Saturated Gucci Precision to Close Milan Fashion Week

 


MILAN– He's been creative director of musical chairs at some of Italy's biggest fashion houses, and the pressure shows, at least on social media.

Gucci's Sabato De Sarno presented his third collection in Milan on Monday, what remains the most anticipated show of the week as Gucci undergoes a major stylistic transition.

A few hours earlier, Valentino, the fashion house that bought his predecessor Alessandro Michele, published images on social media of Michele's first collection for the Roman company Valentino, which presents its collections in Paris. Commenters couldn't help but notice the similarities to her Gucci years.

Anyone with a complicated family dynamic can understand how difficult the time was. Gucci is owned by French conglomerate Kering, which has a 30 percent stake in Valentino, a large but not controlling stake. Add to that that De Sarno is a Valentino alum, whose recent collection included a pussy bow which was one of the codes Michele brought to Gucci.

Michele's catwalk debut for Valentino is expected in Paris for womenswear previews in September.

Some highlights from the fourth and final day of Milan Fashion Week, mainly menswear previews for Spring/Summer 2025:

Sabato De Sarnos' second menswear collection for Gucci focused on precise silhouettes saturated with color. A long acid green bonded leather coat over thigh-baring shorts and a mesh shirt set the tone for an outing that was both rigorous and daring.

Models paraded through the atrium of the Milan Triennale Design Museum, paying homage to De Sarnos' vision of museums as nurturing spaces. With this in mind, he invited 400 fashion students to attend the show and met them afterwards. Part of the brand's relaunch has moved to spaces away from the sprawling Gucci Hub on the outskirts of Milan, as De Sarno stakes its claim on Italy's fashion capital one location at a time.

His Spring-Summer 2025 collection featured wearable elements that were easy to compose as desired, reflecting De Sarno's desire for people to feel free and welcomed in my clothes.

Amid the structure of bonded leather jackets and crisp poplin suits, there was plenty of movement, in vivid, undulating repeat prints of surfers and dolphins on boxy bowling shirts, shimmering bead-fringed jackets in lemon or lime tones, and long-sleeved jackets. hand-knitted polo shirts sparkling with encrusted sequins. A subtle jacquard was a rare sign of the Gucci logo.

New style ideas included chunky sunglasses that, when not worn, could be tied around the neck using a brightly colored Gucci cord. The highly constructed bags are inspired by archival luggage and include detachable pieces. Diving sneakers and slip-ons featured molded soles.

The media-shy De Sarno said in press notes that the collection was about freedom.

I feel free when there is no distance between my words and my thoughts, between my actions and my heart, he writes.

De Sarno has the full support of Serena Williams, sitting in the front row between Kering boss François-Henri Pinault and her sister Venus.

It was a nice collection. I think Sabato is a great designer,” Serena Williams said backstage. “Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. I have to say I really enjoyed it.”

Speaking about the versatility of the looks, Williams said she saw many on the runway aimed at menswear that she loved for herself. Honestly, I ended up loving this light blue suit. It wasn't really for me, but I could totally vibe in there,” she said. “A lot of the bags were pretty. Those purple shoes were really cool.

Williams, wearing a cute peach suit with a sparkly knit top, was joined by her sister Venus, wearing a red Gucci Pantone leather coat. Venus also showed up at the JW Anderson show on Sunday night. Irish actor Paul Mescal was also in attendance, keeping cool in striped shorts and a blue GG monogram shirt.

There has been one constant in the Giorgio Armani fashion house for 49 years, and that is Giorgio Armani.

His looks are a constant evolution of the relaxed fit that has characterized his fashion empire.

Soothing hues set the mood for the Spring-Summer 2024 collection, where loose, often pleated pants were the star. Jackets were worn open and shirts were often collarless or with a casual shawl collar. The silk pants featured large side pleats, billowing out with every step. Small slit pockets are useful. Vests added a thug touch, with or without shirts. The darling sun hats were foldable.

Models walked slowly, deliberately, down a runway surrounded by video images of tropical plants, the motif of the season. Some were smiling, as the designer has insisted in recent seasons.

Turning 90 next month, Armani remains firmly at the center of his fashion group, launched in 1975, and is always ready to take a bow after his shows.

He was joined this year by his longtime right-hand man, Leo DellOrco, who heads the group's menswear office, and Gianluca DellOrco, head of Giorgio Armani's menswear office.

Russell Crowe was front row for the show at the Armanis Milan theater. Wearing jeans, the actor said he was jet-lagged and wanted to be comfortable. He may have spotted something on the trail that fits this project.

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