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Texture, techwear and casual vibe: the main takeaways from Milan Fashion Week SS25

Texture, techwear and casual vibe: the main takeaways from Milan Fashion Week SS25
Texture, techwear and casual vibe: the main takeaways from Milan Fashion Week SS25


In Appiolazas Moschino's menswear debut on Friday, the designer took a trip to the beach, evoking seaside pleasures with raffia and beaded fringe. Raffia-style pieces were also present at Dolce & Gabbana in the form of boxy shirts, oxford shoes and oversized beach bags. At Fendi, the perforated beige handbags were made from recycled leather scraps from the workshop. Gucci featured intricate embroidery and embellishments, with its cult brand limited to accessories and shoes, allowing the designs to speak for themselves, says Simon Longland, buying director at Harrods.

Buttoned and undone

Last season, Milan menswear designers offered formal clothing in new contexts. For SS25, the emphasis is on letting go and undoing, notably at Prada where the office worker in last season's suit and boots has loosened his tie and gone to party.

Guests at the Prada showspace were greeted by a white house, erected in one corner of the room, with a swinging baseline and flashing lights bursting through the windows. On the catwalk, suits were visibly rumpled, floral printed shirts messy, and shirt and jacket collars starched at unexpected angles, as if the wearer had slept fully clothed. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons like fashion to be experienced. We wanted it to be already alive, explains Ms. Prada, backstage after the show. As if they were clothes you already live with. Not too constrained by the search for [the] architectural or conceptual.

I noticed a lightness in the season with a more relaxed approach; looser cuts and softer fabrications, but overall keeping a sophisticated look and feel, says Mytheresas Jordan. Tailoring is as important as ever, but again I feel there is a softness and flow, pants are pleated at the front with a wider cut, blazers are longer and relaxed and often worn with a spread collar shirt, which looks fresh and not literal.

At JW Anderson, beige and gingham shirts hung loosely from the bottoms of sweaters, layered over jersey sweatpants in contrasting pastel tones. Loose jeans, often with maximalist proportions, were haphazardly tucked into boots (usually one leg in, one leg out). The collection also included three sweaters with the Guinness logo, destined to go viral as Anderson's latest piece if you know, you know (similar to her frog shoes and pigeon bag).

Image may contain clothing, shoes, shoes, coat, suit, teen, formal wear, costume accessories, bag and purse.

JW Anderson men's show at Milan Fashion Week.

Photo: Acielle/StyleDuMonde




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