Fashion
Eugene Tong on men's fashion, trends, style and more
Before becoming a leading men's fashion consultant, Eugene Tong cut his teeth at New York men's magazines like FHM, CargoAnd Details, where he was style director. As a globe-trotting editor, Tong, who has a penchant for big black overcoats, white T-shirts and sneakers, was an early evangelist for contemporary, casual street style. In addition to appearing on the mood boards of many men who appreciate the power of an understated, in-your-face aesthetic, he has designed several shows and campaigns for brands like Public School, John Elliott, and Dyne. And his influence shows no signs of slowing. Since 2022, he has been VP of Visuals at Kith, responsible for all kinds of creative productions for the pioneering retailer. We caught him between two of his many meetings to discuss opting out of trends, Grail watches and why he loves Japanese designers so much.
Esquire: Going sockless with a suit?
Eugene Tong: Absolutely no.
Sneakers with a suit?
Definitely a yes.
Earings?
Yes, but not for me.
Coat by Auralee. Jacket and T-shirt by Kith. Pants by Sasquatchfabrix. Sneakers by Adidas. Hat by Rockys Matcha. Sunglasses by Oliver Peoples.
What is your go-to style rule?
Don't let clothes wear you down; you should wear the clothes.
What is the little-known brand that you love at the moment?
All my under radars are now very well known. With social media and the focus on fashion right now, this is becoming more and more difficult. It's always nice to go to a place like Japan where you have a nice national brand that's not so widely distributed.
What is your Grail garment?
Could this be an accessory? The Paul Newman Daytona.
A trend you don't like at the moment?
Trends in general. I don't think you really have to follow trends.
Which designer(s) do you like at the moment?
Its creators are still Japanese: Yohji Yamamoto. I still love Comme des Garons. Auralee. Theatora.
What never goes out of style?
A white t-shirt.
What’s the one thing you never wear but absolutely refuse to get rid of?
Seventy-five percent of my wardrobe.
What do you spend the most on in your wardrobe?
Coats.
Which is worse: high effort or no effort?
Given the choice, trying hard is worse.
What was your moment of reflection when developing your own personal style?
Just working in the industry and realizing there are no rules and everyone's style is their own.
What is the difference between style and fashion?
Tendencies. If you follow trends, I don't necessarily think that translates into style. But someone who has an innate style is always elegant.
What is the one thing you buy again and again?
White sneakers and t-shirts.
Who is your style icon?
Hiroshi Fujiwara of Fragment Design.
What watch are you wearing at the moment?
My Garmin running watch. I have a lot of watches, but it's funny: I started running and wearing them daily, and now every time I put on a different watch, they all feel heavy.
What do you think Americans always get wrong when it comes to style, and what do you think they get right?
I think their biggest problem is probably being fit and knowing what suits the body. Obviously America has a big melting pot with a lot of different body types, and so I think they understand clothes and how they should fit you. And one thing they get right is casual style in general. Given where we are in fashion right now, this echoes the more casual, less fussy style.
Is the tie dead forever?
No. As a man, you should always have at least one. You may not carry it a lot, but you should always have one on deck.
Gold or steel watches?
Both.
What is your favorite summer shoe?
A retro runner. Nike has some good options. Adidas. New balance. Yeah.
Photography: James Macari
Session editor: Alfonso Fernández Navas
Hair: Kevin Ryan using Unite
Grooming: Ryo Kuramoto for Nars
Design Director: Rockwell Harwood
Collaborating visual director: James Morris
Executive producer/director: Dorenna Newton
Director of photography: Elyssa Aquino
Camera: Derrick Saint-Pierre
Video editor: Josh Archer
Associate Producer, Video: Janie Booth
Associate producer, video: Carly Bivona
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