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Gucci Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

Gucci Spring 2025 Menswear Collection
Gucci Spring 2025 Menswear Collection


Playing with color is like dancing for me. And when the outfit is finished, it's my wave. Sabato De Sarno happily mixed his metaphors in front of a Gucci fashion show this afternoon which demonstrated his growing confidence in this house with its rhetorical buffet. Today's surfwear theme, the collection's most eye-catching departure, was less a metaphor than a simile expressing shared currents. These ranged between De Sarno's passion for galleries and museums and something he said he detected in the memoirs of William Finnegan. Barbarian days: He spent his twenties traveling around the world surfing, having many experiences and meeting different people, and this is what helped him discover his own sense of freedom. Just as Gucci's last show was held at London's Tate Modern, this spring collection of De Sarnos menswear was first presented at the Milan Triennale.

The Triennale is currently presenting an exhibition on the work of designer Gae Aulenti, one of whose quotes was pinned on De Sarnos' mood board: Tradition is not something that is inherited but that is built day by day. day. Here you can detect several new layerings of elements already established during the not-quite year of home designers. These lived in the opening of the leather coats of the same so-called rotten green that we saw in the fall of 24; a neoprene surf slipper gridded in the same 3D interlocking G mesh we saw in the Tate Modern ballet flats; and designers' continued commitment to short-shorts. The latter theme was particularly unconventional when paired with the fitted fastening jackets, cut from lightweight cotton poplin and constructed with a lightness that betrayed De Sarnos' Neapolitan identity.

The print, however, was a completely new departure from Sarno x Gucci. There were three variants, all in multiple colorways; they presented leaves of palm trees, dolphins or hibiscus. Even with short sleeves, camp collar shirts were sewn with a patch pocket on each hip to echo the profile of a work jacket. De Sarno sometimes bordered them with beaded fringes, other times delivered elements of the print into a brocade, and even, on occasion, dropped the entire design in embroidered beads. Long-sleeve chore jackets in less zhuzhed-up prints were particularly on my wavelength.

Sometimes the print also made an appearance on T-shirts worn under camp-collared shirts, delivered with increasingly larger fringes or front-facing sequins. The hibiscus variation has been translated into a beautiful jacquard on indigo denim. Polo shirts were layered under oversized double-G work shirts with a nice curve seam in the back and not-really-warm pants. The harmonious turbulence between competing colors in these looks speaks to De Sarnos' opening statement.

When it came to accessories, De Sarno and her team shredded this surf-inspired theme. From squishy sunglass straps to fluoride varnish crossbody bags, radical colors abounded. Necklaces and other jewelry were segmented into bamboo-shaped links. A group of bags were delivered in modular groups connected by shiny hardware and Gucci surfer charms. The extent to which this was not almost entirely a literal surf collection was probably best expressed by the beautiful but impractical almond-bit boot for the beach. Neoprene slippers were closer to the theme, but were used here more significantly to breathe new life into the creators' increasingly skillful explorations of both commonalities and frictions across contemporary expressions of gender to through the forms of its collections. I feel free when my thoughts and actions combine, De Sarno said before adding: And I feel free when my heart follows exactly what I love. It made him look a lot like a surfer determined to carve his own path.




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