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ZEGNA, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci and more: Milan Fashion Week SS25 reviews

ZEGNA, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci and more: Milan Fashion Week SS25 reviews
ZEGNA, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci and more: Milan Fashion Week SS25 reviews


Here, compiled for easy reference, are our reviews of the Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 men's shows.

Dolce & Gabbana

Italian style hasn't expired yet, according to Dolce&Gabbana. For spring-summer 2025, the house insists that we must not let ourselves be overwhelmed by modernity and instead seek answers in the beauty of its history.

Read the full review here.


After a hundred years of your empire, most creative directors would lean towards the avant-garde or the bold. Statement fashion is a persistent formula, especially for heritage houses, but for Silvia Venturini Fendi, a cultural changemaker in her own right, it's a formula that simply doesn't suit the Fendi empire.

As the first centenary collection of Roman houses, the house establishes the SS25 collection as one that is as respectful of Fendi's heritage as it is of Fendi's future. Robotic pillars covered in chrome reflected and rotated as the latest season waltzed across the room, refracting to represent the present. Crossroads or not, it was Venturini Fendi's way of sticking to his guns and delivering more discreet doses of change.

Slightly, classic uniform tropes are subverted by the head matriarch. Check out Fendi-stamped jerseys, Selleria-stitched jeans and asymmetric-collar Oxford shirts that all echo this. But a quality of vitality is still present in the collection, as if to remind us that the brand is alive, and not to forget the kind of cultural hold that Venturini Fendi had during the 90s. Verve comes into play with pastel checks , a double Baguette (because the only way forward is with multiplicity) and plays off the new badge, which incorporates a squirrel nod to Venturini Fendi's own matriarch, its signature Pequin stripes and the FF logo. , and Janus, the Roman god of beginnings and endings. But as far as we know, there is no end in sight. Quite simply, new opportunities are multiplying for the house's hundredth anniversary, opportunities that Venturini Fendi has shown it knows how to seize.


What is an obstacle if it is only an illusion? At the 8th men's show co-directed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, Prada finally gets a taste of rave. Not just any part of the escapist subject matter so closely linked to Simons, but rather the moments of euphoria that blur the lines between reality and deception. It's a night out at a house party and you start to get into this stage when you've had too much to drink. Your head spins, you can't tell your friends from strangers, and everything starts to feel weird. You understand: it’s respect for youth. This time, however, they were taken into the point of view of his drunk guest.

But how can we express such self-referential chaos through clothing? You are using trompe l'oeil. What looked like cardigans layered over sweaters were optical tricks achieved by color blocking. Then came belts sewn directly onto pants but not functioning as belts, below the waistband to create that uneasy feeling. Tailored jackets come pre-creased, as if locking in their wear forever. And the sleeves are intentionally shortened, narrowed from their original shape. It's easy to imagine them as destroyed versions of the clothes the cool kids wear in the rave continuum. You can almost feel how much better the clothes would look with hard alcohol spilled on them. Put on an overplayed techno song and you'll get it; it's as Prada as it gets.


There is a certain identity in the new Gucci, and spring-summer 2025 is a journey towards freedom.

Read the full review here.


Confidence has been established at ZEGNA. Once indebted to clothing, its spring-summer 2025 show shows an ascension not only in terms of craftsmanship but also respect.

Read the full review here.

Once you've finished this story, click here to check out our June/July 2024 issue, featuring Jeff Satur on the cover.




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