Men's Outerwear Brands at Milan Fashion Week Embrace Utility References and Textile Research

MILAN References to utility clothing and workwear were everywhere at Milan Fashion Week, from street looks to runways, signaling that menswear is still riding this wave. Outerwear specialists have pushed the bar higher in fabric research, delivering innovative textiles and coverings that juggle performance and style.

A guided tour of Stone IslandOur showroom is like taking a crash course in textile engineering. The development and exploration of textiles at the Italian brand is quite remarkable. Examples include the three-layer Raso Gommato, where lightweight cotton sateen is bonded to a performance membrane and protected by an ultra-light white polyester mesh. Layers of resin are applied to a piece-dyed cotton base and then laser-etched, which creates camouflage by destroying areas of resin to reveal the original piece-dyed color. The jacket features three-dimensional curved pockets, inspired by the archives Stone Island pieces.

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Another landmark innovation was the creation of a new fabric, an ultra-thin layer of sheepskin bonded to a very lightweight polyester organza, making it more durable and giving a crisp finish. This was used on a parka inspired by vintage military pieces and motorcycle jackets, with internal seams and covered zippers.

The original idea of ​​Massio Osti, CP Company continues to define its fashion codes through fabric innovation and material research. Several of the season's outerwear designs are the result of integrating new textiles into the brand's signature silhouettes, including the Millemiglia and Goggle jackets. A nylon yarn flattened and laminated with a special coating then overdyed to achieve a patina effect has been worked into a utility anorak with a sheer Pium hoodie from the Rafia range, while Lino Wax linen fabric coated with a fabric semi-transparent Polyurethane compound transformed the Millemiglia military jacket into protective gear.

HAS Studio Massimo OstiThe recently launched spin-off brand, which draws on Ostis' maverick expertise in sportswear and textile manipulation, has been highlighting some of the new additions to its range since its launch at Fashion Week in Paris last January, including collaborations with Leatherman and Alcantara.

In the same vein, Ten CThe spring collection marked the debut of new textiles, including resin-coated linen twisted into cargo pants and a pocketed utility jacket inspired by an American military suit, which creative director Alessandro Pungetti said he cut in half to a work suit, so to speak. To be sure the designer expands the company's offering beyond its core outerwear category building a total look resulting from a new way of seeing clothing, he said. Waxed styles, including anoraks and fly jackets inspired by second-hand outerwear that the company repaired for clients, featured an aged, vintage patina that reinforced the collection's overall utilitarian vibe. Garment-dyed nylon gabardine with a metallic effect is a modest but ubiquitous trend among outerwear specialists.

With different yield, improved fabric supply takes Add towards more recent territories. The men's spring collection included mixed materials, cupro and cotton, bomber jackets and the so-called aluminum windbreaker, made from a metallic wire fabric that guarantees additional protection. Also in the high-performance space is a three-layer rain jacket and lightly padded overshirt padded with Primaloft hinged on gorpcore branding. The brand is also expanding into different product categories, including for example knitwear and pants.

Amareur presented short hooded jackets in ultra-light fabric padded with goose down and a small boudin-quilted and semi-lined blouse in hand-polished vegetable napa, with chest pockets and horn buttons. The color palette ranged from white to ecru, beige to butter and shades of blue. Range of gray mixed with shades of sage green, leather and orange. Materials included silks, suede and ultrafine wools.

HAS Bluer, five different lines were presented: essential, urban police, department, rider and B. project. The last two have been designed specifically for men influenced by the world of motor racing with jackets in double-layer nylon and leather, sweatshirts and T-shirts in classic black and white cotton. The B.Project line offers a pouch with LED flash. The Essential features shell and bomber jackets made from rubber-coated nylon and natural fiber blends, built around a color palette of green, plum and yellow. Urban Police is dedicated to cargo pants, round-neck sweaters in waterproof and durable stretch fabrics, enriched with graphics from the world of military protection with touches of navy blue and sand. There were also blazers and dress dresses in shades of blue and optical white for women. The focus is on outerwear from the Department line: the color palette includes neutral shades such as brown and military green. High-density nylon and garment-dyed cotton were used to ensure outdoor performance. Inspired by the world of workwear, women's jackets and suits, in cotton with nylon or linen or garment-dyed, have been enriched with large pockets and zippers.

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