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Milan Men's Fashion Week: China steps in

Milan Men's Fashion Week: China steps in
Milan Men's Fashion Week: China steps in

 


Milan Men's Fashion Week, which took place in June 1418, this season featured a relaxed atmosphere and new creative voices, including British newcomer Martine Rose and Dunhills' recently appointed creative director Simon Holloway.

For SS25, the luxury stalwarts focused on creating a more casual and relaxed vibe compared to AW24. Short shorts slipped onto chiseled models at Gucci, shirts were unbuttoned at Prada, huge quilted jackets hung off shoulders at JW Anderson and soft leather loafers strolled down a linen-covered catwalk at Zegna .

Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana's beach range was a far cry from the tailored house's fall presentation in January, and Fendis' preppy list of knitted rugby sweaters, school blazers and jackets tiles evoked a playful return to childhood.

Menswear presentations have garnered more attention over the years, given the industry's recent injection of exciting talent and stylistic versatility. But who made the most noise on Chinese social platforms?

Daily jing summarizes the highlights below.

Zhang Ruoyun at Fendi SS25.  Image: Fendi
Zhang Ruoyun at Fendi SS25. Image: Fendi

Fendi left its usual exhibition space at the house's Via Solari headquarters to transport guests to a studio on the outskirts of Milan. The new venue gave a greater scale to the presentation, enhanced by huge mirrored blocks that moved around the track as if operated by a remote control.

To celebrate its 100th anniversary, Fendi introduced a new logo featuring four of the house's motifs, including the famous double F emblem, which adorned sweaters and shirts.

The presence of Chinese actors Zhang Ruoyun and Xu Kai has sparked online buzz across China, with netizens reposting paparazzi photos of the duo on their social media.

Gucci Men SS25.  Image: Gucci
Gucci Men SS25. Image: Gucci

Landing the final spot on the calendar on Monday, creative director Sabato De Sarno visited the Milan Triennale, a design gallery built in the 1930s, to unveil his latest vision for Gucci. Inspired by surfing, the looks included graphic cropped and shirted sets, swim slippers and bright wraparound sunglasses, elevating everyday wear with rich materials and embellishments. At FROW was Chinese actor Zhou Yiran.

Reactions to the collection were mixed across China, with critics complaining that the clothes did not stand out from Prada's eclectic aesthetic.

It's too similar to Prada and a bit disconnected from the previous series, wrote Xiaohongshu user @shishucheng (), while another netizen (@xiuyan) asked: Are you sure this isn't isn't Zara?

Prada Men SS25.  Image: Prada
Prada Men SS25. Image: Prada

Set to the pulsating soundtrack of Faithless Insomnia, Prada's latest collection, described by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as a fairytale rave landscape, saw models gliding down the catwalk in crumpled, distorted, shrunken and exaggerated silhouettes .

Each piece evokes the lived-in feel of the clothes you already own. Trompe-l'oeil Breton T-shirts featured distorted stripes, while low-cut leather belts were incorporated into pants, creating a look that was both casual and disoriented.

Response to the collection was largely positive, but some skeptics noted that the clothes appeared to have been designed for a single demographic. Only people with a good figure and good appearance can wear these pants, a user wrote on Xiaohongshu.

Leo Wu attends Zegna SS25 Mens.  Image: Instagram
Leo Wu attends Zegna SS25 Mens. Image: Instagram

Zegna took guests to the outskirts of Milan for his showcase, gathering them on a vast field of flax. The effect, created using lightweight metal strips, was designed to evoke the coexistence between man and nature.

When it came to clothing, summer inspiration arrived in abundance in the form of light and airy pants, languid silhouettes, loose patterned shirts, polished leather jackets and oversized gym bags.

Chinese actor and global brand ambassador Wu Lei was joined on FROW by Thai actors Nattawat Jirochtikul (aka Fourth) and Norawit Titicharoenrak (aka Gemini), sparking discussions among their fans online.

JW Anderson Men's SS25.  Image: JW Anderson
JW Anderson for men SS25. Image: JW Anderson

In true JW Anderson fashion, surrealism and everyday wear were merged to create exaggerated knits and oversized silhouettes for SS25. The show featured hand-knit cardigans made to look like boxes of chocolate, huge sleeveless utility vests, bulbous airbags affixed to otherwise plain T-shirts, and comically oversized ties falling to models' knees .

Anderson's distinct vision continues to resonate with Chinese netizens. JW (Anderson) is such a genius; he amazes me every season, wrote user @Faust on Xiaohongshu. This sentiment was echoed by many online commenters.

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