The wind-inspired Issey Miyakes show takes flight at Paris Fashion Week

PARIS — Diaphanous origami-like sculptures that floated like spring seeds caught in the wind captured the essence of Issey Miyake's subtle, rich and exquisite exhibition at Paris Fashion Week one of the strongest seasons.

Here are some highlights from Thursday's spring 2025 menswear shows:

The Up, Up and Away show's stunning menswear presentations featured a poetry akin to couture: seemingly lightweight textiles that inflated like parachutes or kites. The clothes looked ready to fly off.

In the cobblestone courtyard of Mobilier Nationals, the Homme Pliss show Thursday morning took inspiration from all things windy, transforming the elements into wearable art.

The collection demonstrates the skillful innovations in fabric techniques of Satoshi Kondo and the Homme Plisse design team.

A bright blue coat cut a striking silhouette, with stiff, angular sleeves that contrasted beautifully with the softness of its folds. It was not simply a coat, but a sculptural piece that transformed with the air, recalling the house's romantic approach to silhouettes.

Spring saw clothes come to life, like kites in the sky with voluminous silhouettes created by zipping and undoing buttons. One standout piece, a pale blue hooded look, inflated like a parachute as the model walked across the cobblestone courtyard, its back panels filling with air dramatically.

A beige t-shirt and vest set looked red carpet ready with its chic, skinny arrow-shaped matching tie.

The spring show was a veritable lesson in poetry mixing complexity and simplicity, and when the collection was greeted with loud applause, the Paris sun finally appeared between the clouds.

Rick Owens stunned guests with a surreal Ben-Hur-style theatrical spectacle, like a painting from a Hollywood epic, as he paid fashion homage to the boulevard of vice and model of inclusiveness Tinseltown.

The American computer designer reflected on his personal journey there after fleeing his critical hometown. Spring, he added, is an homage to old-school black-and-white biblical epics, blending art deco, grim sin and redemptive morality.

Cut to a sparkling cauldron, shimmering and daring with sharp flamboyance at the Palais de Tokyo. Sports shorts paired with chiffon capes, alongside basketball sneakers, created a bold mix of streetwear and high fashion. Models stomped around in giant geosneakers the size of space boots, echoing the goth-glamour aesthetic. Wreaths created in an Art Deco style added the necessary drama, which Owens loves to court.

Hooded biker jackets worn over silk gazar jumpsuits were bound, in a wacky twist, with foil and vegetable-tanned parchment cowhide. Yes, this choice underlines the designer's ethical commitment to the environment, behind all his bravado about vice.

It is virtue, not vice, that actually defines this collection.

Owens emphasized the importance of unity and mutual dependence in the face of global intolerance. He invited students and professors from Parisian fashion schools, as well as old friends and members of the trans community, to walk in the show, expressing a powerful message of inclusiveness and solidarity.

Low visors, busy prints and monochrome urban style set the tone for Yohji Yamamoto's latest show.

On a raw-looking podium, his models exuded a fresh and carefree air. Their different ages, backgrounds and unique profiles were unified by loose silhouettes and funky utilitarian edges like collars and deconstructed suits.

Yamamoto is known for the avant-garde spirit of his clothing. His signature oversized silhouettes in black often feature draping in varying textures.

Yamamoto played with a myriad of suit buttons in random positions, reflecting his emphasis on texture and fabric.

The looks were often overflowing with detail, creating a visual feast of ethnic-vibe beaded necklaces and raw fiber hats.

Black trilby hats add style to a cultural contrast, echoing the fusion of styles that defines the Yamamotos brand.

Alexandre Mattiussi, famous for his typically Parisian cool, once again demonstrated his mastery of minimalist elegance in his latest collection.

Anchored in a blend of modern and classic elements, Mattiussis designs have always embodied the relaxed style of Parisian chic. His journey from the '90s, when he said he fell in love with fashion, to becoming an industry powerhouse is reflected in every silhouette.

A co-ed show began as a study in black, relaxing as it developed into checks and crisp washed denim and ended with optimistic greens. Minimalism was key, a signature clean style from the French designer Minimal in his choice of accessories and decorations. He channeled the clean, crisp lines and freshness of the 1990s.

Shiny amulets added a subtle lift to a velvety tunic dress, while a brown men's jacket and hybrid trench coat were worn over a bare torso, showcasing casual spring fare that didn't try hard, exuding intentional simplicity.

Against a minimalist backdrop of Haussmannian gilded door handles and raw plasterwork, the exhibition showcased the strength of Mattiussis's design philosophy: simplicity with a touch of freshness.