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Forever 21 requests rent reductions, facing financial difficulties

 


Forever 21 asks for rent reductions

Forever 21 is asking landlords for a rent reduction as the former fast fashion player's sales decline and it struggles to keep pace with savvier competitors, CNBC has learned.

The retailer, which has more than 380 stores in the United States, has asked some landlords to reduce its rent by up to 50%, people familiar with the matter told CNBC.

Although the company faces financial difficulties, it has not yet hired advisors and does not plan to file a second bankruptcy petition, the sources said. It is working to restructure its many leases so it can reduce costs, they said.

Forever 21 is facing a series of problems that have long weighed on its business. It operates in the increasingly saturated fast fashion market, the sources said. They also added that the retailer was struggling to manage inventory and understand and respond to its consumers.

The retailer's struggles come after it filed for bankruptcy protection in 2019 and was subsequently bought by a consortium including brand management company Authentic Brands Group and owners Simon Property Group and Brookfield Property Partners.

When the company filed for bankruptcy protection, it had more than 800 locations worldwide.

Like many retailers, Forever 21's massive store footprint strained its balance sheet when it first filed for bankruptcy. The retailer expanded too quickly during its growth phase, leaving it unable to invest in its supply chain and respond quickly to changing trends.

Closing hundreds of stores after filing for bankruptcy hasn't solved its problems.

Forever 21's financial situation has also hurt the performance of its operator Sparc Group, the joint venture that includes Authentic, Simon and, since last summer, China-linked fast fashion giant Shein. Sparc manages the operations of Forever 21, as well as several other formerly bankrupt retailers, including Aeropostale, Brooks Brothers and Lucky Brand.

Sparc declined to comment to CNBC. Simon did not respond to a request for comment.

This weighs on Sparc forever

Run to Compete

In the past, Forever 21's main rivals were H&M and Zara. These days, its biggest enemies are super-fast fashion retailers like Shein and Temu.

“It's almost impossible to compete on speed. So if you compare a brand that was around 20 years ago to these new rapid, on-demand manufacturing companies, it's like comparing a mobile phone from 2000 to the latest iPhone The speed, the quality, everything is just different,” one of the people said. “As soon as someone goes viral in a new outfit on TikTok, Shein creates it immediately and no mainstream brand can keep up with that.”

Shoppers walk past advertisements on the opening day of fast fashion e-commerce giant Shein, which held a physical pop-up inside Forever 21 at Ontario Mills Mall, Ontario, October 19, 2023 .

Allen J. Cockroaches | Los Angeles Times | Getty Images

At the ICR conference in January, Authentic Brands CEO Jamie Salter said the acquisition of Forever 21 was “probably the biggest mistake” of his career, adding that he also made a mistake in not having failed to recognize earlier the competitive threat posed by Shein and Temu.

He recalled a conversation he had with Simon CEO David Simon, who asked Salter why he wanted to partner with Shein.

“I said, ‘David, this is the right decision, we can’t beat them. Their supply chain is too good. They know what's going on. They understood that. We need to partner with them,” Salter said. “So I was the brave one who said, 'Let's partner with these guys.'”

As part of the partnership between the two retailers, Shein will design, manufacture and distribute a line of Forever 21 co-branded clothing and accessories that will be sold primarily on Shein's website. Forever 21 also hosted Shein pop-up stores and began accepting Shein returns, both of which drove positive foot traffic to Forever 21 stores, one of the people said.

The two initially linked up last August, and under the terms of the deal, Shein acquired approximately a third of Sparc while Sparc took a minority stake in Shein.

Given Forever 21's concerns over its leases and the success of Shein's pop-up stores, some industry observers wonder whether the digital giant could soon take over Forever 21's stores. However, one of the people said that was unlikely, as the retailer lacks experience in physical retail and its business model involves small-batch production and inventory that is constantly changing based on trends.

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