The Cats and Dogs of Dior: Kim Jones unveils a star-studded, art-inspired Parisian collection

Kim Jones' star-studded collection for Dior is the result of an encounter with ceramist Hylton Nel, whose pottery and ceramics, particularly with animal motifs, gave the Parisian house's spring collection a playful, arty and domesticated touch. .

Here are some highlights of the Friday Spring 2025 menswear collections:

It's raining posh cats and dogs

On a rainy day, Demi Moore arrived with her and a chihuahua called Pilaf and when asked if she preferred dogs or cats, she replied: Isn't that obvious? In the same spirit as that of the Hollywood actress, the setting of the Dior fashion show, in the sumptuous 17th century park of the great Val-de-Grâce on the left bank, was very ironic. These were sculptures of reclining ceramic naked felines and cheeky canines, inspired by Nel's collection of trinkets and the designers at Dior.

Jones' artistic credentials come as no surprise. Known for his historical and cultural inspirations, he has already drawn photographs of Rudolf Nureyev and TS Eliots The Waste Land on his uncles. This collection continues his tradition, bringing Nels's whimsical ceramics to life.

Bird motifs on a black suit jacket and flowing cloche hat opened the show, with the model holding a reclining naked feline. Sketch-like animal motifs then appeared everywhere. The loose, boxy proportions of car coats and skorts seemed airy and defined the springtime silhouette of patterns that channeled the muted pastels of glazed ceramic. A discreet pearly neck accessory, a sort of strappy hoodie collar, was a standout item that seemed both historic and avant-garde, a signature of the British designer.

Jones' innovative tailoring shines through, as always. Spring coats that seemed soft and feminine were highlighted in the form of black leather boots, in one of many contrast games. This juxtaposition of delicate and strong elements is a hallmark of Jones design. This season, however, felt more like a variation on a theme for the designer than anything overtly new.

Junya's punk red carpet

A black urban patchwork suit, with frayed edges but a clean silhouette, opened Junya Watanabe's latest menswear show, setting the stage for a focused and bold theme. The Japanese designer, known for his avant-garde designs and distinctive aesthetic, is once again pushing the boundaries.

Bow ties popped above red carpet-ready white tuxedo shirts on a real red carpet catwalk. But this was no ordinary awards show outfit, an earring here, a frayed hem there. It was punk's answer to red carpet season. Tuxedo pants suddenly became distressed black jeans. Electrified hair standing up, paired with cropped tartan patches and clipped inserts, evoked a Tim Burtons Edward Scissorhands vibe.

Watanabe, famous for his fabrication and gradual deconstruction, has continued to showcase his blend of historical references and modern subcultures.

The collection also reflects Watanabe's penchant for collaboration, with elements reminiscent of his partnerships with brands like Levis and Carhartt. The fusion of high fashion with utilitarian elements added depth to the pieces, making them surprisingly theatrical. Ready for the spotlight.

Mayner offers oversized Asian-themed elegance

Loose proportions and a round-shouldered coat paired with strappy sandals gave the start of Hed Mayner's spring collection a hint of the Far East. The exhibition reflects Israeli designer Mayner's unique ability to find freedom within constraint. Double-breasted silhouettes on silky linen tops and jackets, as well as utilitarian samurai-like details on belts and waist straps, completed the Asian theme. Wide, square and oversized was the overall aesthetic of a surprisingly bulky display.

Mayner is known for his conceptual approach to form. Oversized gloves and sanitized, protruding white box-shaped pockets, resembling fencing clothing, added an aggressive edge to the collection.

Mayners designs often deconstruct classic clothing and balance tradition and modernity. The samurai-like details and utilitarian elements echoed his talent for reinterpretation. The crossover silhouettes and belt fastenings were reminiscent of historical garments, yet firmly rooted in the contemporary.

Silky linens and other natural fibers were manipulated to create structured yet flowing shapes. The oversized gloves, which could have been used to handle toxic chemicals, added a utilitarian aspect to the show.