A guide to French political fashion: the subtle and not-so-subtle fashion choices of French leaders | Fashion trends

France is in the middle of two of its favorite pastimes: political unrest and fashion week, two worlds that are increasingly colliding. Fashion writer Marc Beauge, who has advised at least one president, explained to AFP the changing rules of style for French politicians. For politicians, he says, a simple uniform has become dominant: a navy blue suit – fitted and usually a little too slim – with a white shirt and thin tie. “It signals respectability, authority and above all a lack of ostentation. It is of average quality and one cannot blame it for elegance,” Beauge said.

It's a particularly popular item of clothing among centrists and social democrats, and it's President Emmanuel Macron's go-to look, even though virtually no one in France wears such outfits on the street or in the office anymore – let alone among the start-ups that Macron favors. . The president, however, has changed his style since he called early elections last week: he has adopted funeral black suits. “There’s no more blue and gray,” Beauge said. “It’s a way of showing the seriousness of the moment.”

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Female politicians have largely abandoned the polished designer outfits of the past in an effort to appear less elitist. “It’s always the same pants-jacket combinations which don’t make any sexist comments, but which risk making them invisible,” believes Beauge. Socialist Ségolène Royale, once known for her Chanel tweeds, headbands and knee-length skirts, became noticeably wiser by the time she ran for president in 2017.

When Bauge was summoned to the Elysée by then-president François Hollande for style advice in 2014, his instructions were “neither too chic nor too redneck.” Once popular with presidents, Rolex watches have been discontinued. Everyone remembers the spectacular blunder of a close advisor to the president at the time, Nicolas Sarkozy, in 2009, who declared, in the midst of the economic crisis: “If you don't have a Rolex at 50, then you have clearly a failure in life. »

Extreme style

While centrists seek neutrality, political extremes always make clear statements, Beauge said. Far-right leader Marine Le Pen, whose National Rally (RN) is rising sharply in the polls, ordered her deputies to wear impeccable suits and ties after the last legislative elections in 2022. This was part of 'a strategy aimed at making the party appear as a natural party. a part of French institutions rather than a radical fringe.

“The idea is that RN deputies must be better dressed than the average French person,” Beauge explained. Meanwhile, far-left leader Jean-Luc Mélenchon rarely strays from his short-collared worker's jacket – a classic communist symbol – even though his voters are mainly wealthy, fashion-conscious city dwellers rather than real working class people. Many left-wing MPs seek to signal that they are not part of the political elite with jeans, jackets and a few ties, Beauge said.

This led a right-wing leader, Renaud Muselier, to accuse them of being “dirty and disheveled”. When left-wing bosses tried to impose ties, it sparked a tongue-in-cheek protest in which female MPs appeared wearing them over dresses and jeans.

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