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Ceramic cats, art objects and a designer bow out at Paris Men's Fashion Week

 


Paris Men's Fashion Week ends with the presentation of the spring/summer 2025 shows.

Even though we barely have time to catch our breath before heading into the haute couture shows, it's worth taking stock of some of the exquisite garments that were presented by houses like Dior Men, Loewe and Hermes the last days.

Dior for men

“I just know something good is going to happen,” Kate Bush sang on repeat during the Dior Homme spring/summer 2025 show. Her uplifting song Anti-cloud providing the soundtrack to the presentation of a collection inspired by the work of South African ceramicist Hylton Nel.

Nel's work has a whimsical, Lewis Carroll-like side, as evidenced by the giant ceramic cats that keep watch over the track. These works resonated with Dior Mens creative director Kim Jones' collection, as smaller versions of the statues were captured by some models, while his designs were displayed on tops and sweaters.

The collection was filled with breezy summer suits and shorts in medium blue and oatmeal, wide-leg pants in mushroom tones worn with wrap skirts, pale pink zip-up jackets and knit tanks adorned with Nels artwork. There were long bitter chocolate brown coats, while a touch of softness appeared in the form of beaded and embellished scarves draped around a few shoulders, mixed with simple cloche hats with lovely beaded brims and heavy light beige boots .

Loewe

If Dior went big with art, Loewe went small, placing modest sculptures along its runway, including an original chair by Scottish architect Charles Rennie Macintosh.

The objects framed a collection that spoke of movement, with threads sewn into hems and necklines to hold the edges as if caught in the wind. Creative director Jonathan Anderson, who also runs his eponymous brand, JW Anderson, had some models wear long pheasant feathers, which swayed with every step.

Some necklines were scrunched around the jawline and Derby shoes were elongated to extreme levels. Trousers also underwent a transformation, starting out slim and fitted, before becoming looser and held together on one hip.

Hermes

As always, Hermès has remained true to its mantra of trend-free clothing, a methodology increasingly adopted by other houses. Hermès gave a light-as-air masterclass on how to dress for a summer on the yacht, for going out in Saint-Tropez and for evenings spent in fabulous restaurants.

This refined nonchalance is expressed through pants cut to a precise length at the ankle, shirts cut for precise volume, and jackets and coats filled with technical marvels.

Dries Van Noten

As a farewell to the eponymous designer, who is bowing out after 38 years, we all knew Dries Van Noten would deliver something memorable. Known for his skill at mixing patterns and colors with such a light touch that it always looks like things have always been paired that way, Van Noten usually opts to buck the trend for the final shows, with a touring collection forward and not backward.

Centered around gleaming molten metals and presented on a runway covered in crushed foil, looks with a glittering past of gold and silver, interspersed with high-shine satin and shiny, sheer layers. Army green utility jackets had brass emblems sewn around the shoulders, while loose-fitting tops and shorts were made from what might have been ultra-light silver mesh.

Filled with light, color and just a few patterns, this final mixed show was a visual delight and a perfect note for Van Noten to bow out.

Updated: June 23, 2024, 12:30 p.m.

Sources

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2/ https://www.thenationalnews.com/lifestyle/fashion-beauty/2024/06/23/paris-fashion-week-mens-dior-loewe-hermes/

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