Fashion
Dries Van Noten on a Life in Fashion and What Comes Next: I Loved It and Still Do
Roughly 36 hours after Dries Van Noten bid farewell at the closing of his very last show, the legendary Belgian fashion designer sits in his sunny showroom in Paris. It's another Monday morning at the office, with smartly dressed employees clacking away at their computers. Wearing his signature navy sweater with khakis and beige leather shoes, the 66-year-old looks sharp and well-rested. I slept last night, which wasn't the case the nights before, he says with a smile.
As we begin an in-depth discussion about his masculine heritage, his thoughts on the fashion industry, and his plans for the future, Van Noten begins to tell me, almost reflexively, how he had to divide the shoe collection that lines the shelves. around us in two parts, something to do with their Italian shoe supplier. I have to say, I tell him, that you don't seem very retired yet.
Van Noten made headlines earlier this year when he announced his decision to step away from the grind of designing four runway collections a year. In this profession, designers don't tend to know when or how to get out smoothly. But the lucid Van Noten always did things on his own terms.
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Photographed by Sam Hellmann
Its grand finale took place in front of more than 800 friends, fans, clients, admirers and peers, including several colleagues from the Antwerp Six, the group of Belgian fashion designers who graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1981 and took the industry by storm. (The team of long-time friends includes Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee. Martin Margiela is often considered the seventh member.)
True to Dries tradition, the show was filled with clothes designed to make you the most interesting person in the room, with smart cuts and clever colors, patterns and textures. But it wasn't a greatest hits retrospective, even if the cast included several gray-haired former Dries Van Noten stalwarts. Backstage after his salute, a visibly upset Van Noten couldn't help but gush over the new materials (like crisp recycled polyesters) he juxtaposed with classic English wools, and in our conversation, his eyes light up when he discusses the ancient Japanese printmaking technique he first used to create a garden of beautifully muted floral trench coats, pants and tops. It was a tender offering to the fans who made his work a part of their daily lives, and a clear message to the as-yet-unnamed successor who will build on his legacy. They must dare, they must move forward, he told me. After the show and endless hugs and selfies backstage, Van Noten danced under disco ball lights until well after midnight.
The next phase of Dries Van Notens' life will officially begin when he returns to Antwerp, before heading off on an eight-day vacation to the Amalfi Coast with his partner Patrick Vangheluwe and their dog. As he dispenses with small talk, I can tell the creator is eager to get home. But I also feel that he is not leaving all that behind him. I still have a lot of projects, I'm still going to do different things, he says with his clipped Flemish accent. The fashion world and everything, it's my soul, it's my life. So it would be strange to completely close the doors now. So I won't do it.
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