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London-based David Koma launches into menswear

London-based David Koma launches into menswear

 


More women's clothing brands are moving into men's fashion, which analysts say is a more stable market.

15-year-old David Koma launched his first menswear collection during Milan Men's Fashion Week on June 20. Getting into menswear seems like a natural step for me, fulfilling my dream of “Club Koma,” said the brand’s eponymous designer, referring to his concept of a brand world. Designing with my male friends in mind expands the inclusiveness and scope of my creative vision, inviting new voices and perspectives to join the realm of our brands. This aligns perfectly with our brand philosophy of embracing diversity and celebrating unique expressions of style.

The UK-based brand presented a 20-piece collection of menswear, including outerwear, leather goods and crystal-embellished hoodies. The collection will launch in spring 2025.

According to Paul Simmons, director of design agency Oma Studio, the waning influence of streetwear has led menswear buyers to explore other areas for inspiration. Since then, we've seen less streetwear on men's catwalks. 2021. They are now more aware of what is happening in zeitgeist womenswear brands, which indicates a bright future for designers venturing into menswear, he said.

With athletes like Travis Kelce facing pressure for their unique fashion choices and the demand for jewelry for men On the rise, menswear is becoming a more diverse category, moving beyond formal wear and streetwear.

Designers' approach to their menswear collections often differs from how they design women's clothing. Key elements that differentiate the menswear collection include the juxtaposition of masculine utilitarian references with subtle nods to humor and sensuality,” said Koma. “This approach reflects the multifaceted nature of the Koma man, balancing ease and sophistication, playfulness and elegance.” Its latest womenswear collection, for Spring 2025, is inspired by dance pioneer Pina Bausch and contemporary Spanish action artist Candela Capitan.

David Koma, which has seen 76% annual sales growth compared to before the pandemic, is stocked at retailers including Selfridges, Revolve and MyTheresa. Last year alone, the brand was worn by Kendall Jenner, Dua Lipa, Jennifer Lopez, Ana de Armas and Blackpinks Lisa.

But expanding into menswear comes with challenges, including designing for a whole new audience with very different body shapes.. This menswear collection has allowed me more than ever to add personal vulnerability to my creative output, Koma said.

According to market research company IMARC Groups, the latest men's clothing reportthe market is expected to reach $792 billion by 2028, with a compound annual growth rate of 6.1% between 2023 and 2028. For comparison, according to IMARC Group, the global women's clothing market size has reached 1 trillion dollars in 2023 and is expected to reach 1.36 trillion dollars. by 2032.

Simmons said expanding verticals in today’s challenging retail climate may seem counterintuitive, but when it comes to menswear, it can provide greater stability for a brand. “A menswear line can be built from a strong capsule of basics while leveraging the halo effect of the womenswear side of the brand,” he said. “It’s easier [expansion category]“because it allows the brand to expand its offerings over time as customer base and awareness grow.”

According to Simmons, men are increasingly turning away from streetwear and looking for interesting cuts and styles that further facilitate their self-expression. Analysis of the spring 2025 men's collections carried out by fashion search engine Tagwalk showed that classic silhouettes are making a comeback. Compared to last year, there was an 86% decrease in technical looks, including styles inspired by hiking and running wear, and a 70% decrease in grunge looks, according to the company.

Other womenswear designers who have launched menswear since 2023 include 16Arlington, in February of that year, as well as Peter Do, Molly Goddard and Simone Rocha.

Sources

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2/ https://www.glossy.co/fashion/inside-london-based-david-komas-expansion-to-menswear/

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