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Lanvin, the oldest French fashion house, appoints a new designer

Lanvin, the oldest French fashion house, appoints a new designer

 


An important position has just been filled in the world of fashion. Lanvin, France's oldest continuously operating fashion house, named Peter Copping as its head on Thursday, an appointment that hints at a potential return to pure-play designers after a period when attention was focused on content creators.

The arrival of Peter Coppings at Lanvin is an important step in the rebirth of one of the great French houses, said Siddhartha Shukla, deputy general director of Lanvin, in a press release, adding that he was convinced that we would identify a new frontier in fashion and deliver beauty and results in equal measure.

Mr. Copping, 57 and British, is known for his feminine sophistication as well as his technical prowess, and is an insider fashion designer. He has spent the last five years working behind the scenes at Balenciaga, first as head of couture, where he was instrumental in orchestrating the house's much-celebrated return of couture, and then as as head of special projects and the VIP Workshop. (The announcement of his appointment at Lanvin came the day after Balenciaga's latest couture show, attended by Nicole Kidman and Naomi Watts, among others.) Previously, he had been Oscar's hand-picked heir to the Renta before the death of Mr. de la Renta. his succession plans and the head designer at Nina Ricci.

The new job marks a return to the spotlight for Mr. Copping and Lanvin, who had been without a designer since departure by Bruno Sialelli over a year ago, and has struggled to regain the relevance and success it had enjoyed under its longtime designer Alber Elbaz.

It was Mr. Elbaz who had awakened what he called a sleeping beauty of industry, better known for his Arpgé perfume than for his fashion, and made a Cinderella story out of it. He left in 2015 after a falling out with the owner at the time, Shaw-Lan Wang, and died of Covid-19 in 2021.

Lanvin, founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889, was purchased in 2018 by Fosun International, the Chinese business group that also owned Saint-Jean and Club Med. A few years later, it renamed its fashion branch Lanvin Group in recognition of its flagship brand. At the end of 2022, the Lanvin group went public on the New York Stock Exchange, as part of a SPAC merger which enjoyed it at $1.31 billion.

Yet interim collaborations with bold names like Future on a newly created line dubbed Lanvin Lab have done little to create excitement around the label and the group. income were stable in 2023, with Lanvin reporting a 7 percent decline. Perhaps this is why Mr. Shukla chose a more classical direction.

It is now up to Mr Copping to prove him right. Jeanne Lanvin was a visionary of her time whose interests and passions extended far beyond fashion, as did mine, Mr. Copping said in the press release. A graduate of Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art, he spent a decade working under Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton. Her Instagram is full of photos of art and interiors rather than fashion or famous friends. He will start at Lanvin in September.

In the meantime, the most important positions at Givenchy, Dries Van Noten and Chanel are still vacant and the game of fashion musical chairs continues.

Sources

1/ https://Google.com/

2/ https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/27/style/lanvin-peter-copping.html

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