Elie Saab's opulent fall collection: midnight drama and couture capes for men | Fashion News

Paris: Elie Saab once again transported his VIP guests, including Avril Lavigne and Ellie Goulding to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, into a realm of magic and splendor.

With silks and velvet, the Lebanese designer has once again evoked a fantastical, almost fairy-tale world of bridal queens, sparkling foliage and midnight shadows. This season, the fashion world also had the opportunity to take a look at men's haute couture, a slowly growing phenomenon.

Here are some highlights from Wednesday’s Fall/Winter 2024 couture collection:

Elie Saab shines for men and women The Lebanese designer's fall collection proved spectacular, especially at midnight, enveloping the audience in a welcome somber atmosphere. Models wearing black leather opera gloves and graphic black satin bands set the tone.

Men’s couture capes, part of Saab’s theme since fall 2022, were embroidered with sequins and shimmering threads, resembling silver foliage kissed by morning dew. Saab’s opulent men’s couture line continues to add a new dimension to its brand, catering to a market segment that craves visibility.

In this essentially feminine collection, organza swirls rose from the waist in an artistic feat. As the collection progressed, the color palette softened. Long, tried-and-true silhouettes dazzled in jewel-toned hues.

A standout piece was a powder-red off-shoulder gown, where sequins on the bodice transformed into a sea of ​​feathers cascading down the mermaid-like skirt. The transformation of textures underscored Saab's craftsmanship.

Although Saab's designs don't always break the mold when it comes to innovation or surprise, the commitment to his signature style ensures that his designs remain timeless. Its star-studded clientele appreciates classicism worthy of red carpets. Wednesday's influential front row is a testament to Saab's enduring appeal.

Viktor & Rolf Expands the Box Dynamic design duo Viktor & Rolf are often praised in the couture world for thinking outside the box. This season, they expanded the box—both literally and figuratively. Couture looks were paraded to a visibly amused VIP audience, transforming models into cubic and rectangular structures. One early creation featured a minimalist fabric with rectangular shoulders, as if the model had been gift-wrapped or wrapped in couture for some sort of luxury delivery. To top off the look, she donned a red dog-collar hybrid neckpiece that added an extra layer of whimsy.

Elsewhere, boxy structures beneath the garments took on the concept of rigid shoulder pads, ironically recalling Hollywood’s glamorous years. The pièce de résistance was a contrasting ensemble of a blue houndstooth shirt, a pastel striped miniskirt and a burgundy embroidered jacket with gargantuan box-shaped shoulder pads dominating the model’s forehead. It was a sight to behold, blending past and future in a surreal collision.

The human body intersects with abstract three-dimensional geometric shapes like cubes, triangles and spheres… as well as cubes for children, the house said, recognizing a certain absurdism. Known for their theatrical presentations, Viktor & Rolf once again delivered a captivating and entertaining show that transcended traditional fashion. The hairpieces were stiff and android, fancifully windswept, reinforcing the surreal, ironic humor that became their signature.

Their meticulous construction techniques and structural experimentation shone through, recalling past feats like exaggerated shoulder lines and detachable corsets from a Nosferatu-inspired runway show. This season's designs were not just clothes but a commentary on fashion itself and the absurdity of couture. Viktor & Rolf have once again shown that they are the great architects of haute couture, deconstructing and reconstructing the box at every point.

The nostalgic charm of Julie de Libran French fashion designer Julie de Libran is renowned for her intimate fashion shows. She often uses her close friends as models and muses, evoking a nostalgic charm reminiscent of traditional haute couture presentations.

On Wednesday, de Libran pushed her style even further with the models, including the designer's niece Julia and even de Libran herself! Models held numbered cards, a nod to the historic way collections were once presented for a light and airy presentation.

This vintage touch was complemented by details like a pink feather trim on a soft-waisted dress, which exuded a touch of the 1930s. Yet the dress's bright red hue infused a contemporary feel.

De Libran’s affinity for vintage-inspired fabrics shines through in a burgundy column dress and a grandly proportioned coat, both adorned with brilliant lamb velvet flowers. These pieces exemplify her commitment to high-quality craftsmanship and recycling. Using exquisite fabrics sourced from Lyon’s spinning mills, her creations are often unique and non-reproducible, emphasizing the artisanal nature of her work.

As a rare independent designer on the couture calendar, de Libran continues to captivate with her blend of nostalgic elegance and modern sophistication.

The Art of the Invitation In the Parisian luxury industry, the art of the chic invitation is essential. Fashion houses compete in imagination to create the most inventive and extravagant invitations, often delivered by gas-guzzling couriers to each guest's home or business address, with no regard for the environment.

The miniature masterpieces sometimes hint at the upcoming collection, while other times they are simply whimsical.

Chanel's latest invitation, a pair of opera binoculars, alluded to the theme of the show taking place at the Paris Opera. True to its classical roots, Dior sent cards beautifully written by a centuries-old calligrapher, evoking the House's timeless elegance. Schiaparelli's giant golden key-shaped invitation reflected the surrealist legacy of founder Elsa Schiaparelli, promising an avant-garde showcase.