Thom Brownes' 2024 couture collection takes inspiration from the Olympics

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True to his theatrical style, Thom Browne’s fall 2024 couture show opened with a spectacle. Men holding a rope battled for supremacy in a game of tug-of-war staged in the famed Musée des Arts Décoratifs gallery in Paris, where the American designer took a detour to the upcoming Olympics to tell a story of sports, old-school couture, and camp.

Citing both antiquity and American myths, the models reproduced stereotypical poses of athletes across time, from archers and discus throwers to weightlifters, playfully deconstructing gender roles and classic tailoring.

The latter modeled bodies with exaggerated shoulder lines and thin waists reminiscent of the sporting iconography of the period. Dramatic tennis skirts and heelless running boots, accented with laurel wreaths, paved the way for playful homages to France: dresses adorned with hand-painted blue swim trunks or red bikinis (both -pieces was invented in France in 1946) and beaded tricolor lapels on jackets and coats.

Browne launched his brand in 2001 in New York's West Village, initially operating by appointment only, and has since won the CFDA Menswear Designer Award in 2006, 2012 and again in 2016. His collections have been coveted by celebrities, collectors and museums.

Thom Browne (which since 2018 has been part of the Zegna group which owns 90% of the shares) is also a ready-to-wear company currently offered in more than 300 department stores and boutiques in 40 countries, as well as in 110 Thom retail stores. Browne. “I have a very successful business side to my business,” Browne explained in a backstage interview with CNN. (Sewing) balances the other side of what I do.

As is Browne’s case, the show was a fun and playful way to showcase traditional sewing techniques. “I like to tell a story,” he explained. “I like to entertain it and ground it in beautifully made garments.”

Perhaps surprisingly for a couture collection, it was muslin, the simple, lightweight cotton used to create the first garment mock-ups (called toiles) in the ateliers that comprised many of Browne's finished pieces. To quote from the exhibition notes: Toile as Source Text Toile as Final Garment The Work-in-Progress Becomes the Final Work Couture.

Using exposed seams as well as ancient techniques, including hand basting (a complex and ancient method used by artisans when working with delicate fabrics or to create precise alignments), the designers' goal, he said, was to play with tailoring and proportions.

Jared Ellner, a celebrity stylist who has dressed influencer Emma Chamberlain and actress Molly Gordon for the show and who regularly works with singer Sabrina Carpenter, said of Thom Browne: “It's so effortless and instantly recognizable, while pushing back aesthetic barriers. Never make everyone look the same, but allow each person to add their own style (Sabrina and Emma) love to dress as a character, really pushing their own individuality. »

And in an age where most discreet details are lost to the camera, perhaps this could be the ultimate luxury.

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