Raised hems and transparent shirts: men's fashion is revealed at Fashion Week | Fashion

The menswear shows in Milan and Paris have just wrapped up, and in short, it was a mood. The whole of street style was divided into two distinct style camps. On one side were the couture connoisseurs who opted for sharp suits, polished shoes, and sleek accessories like sleek, wide-rimmed sunglasses. On the other side, there was a more laissez-faire approach: think baggy jeans, rumpled shirts, and baseball caps galore.

But it was of course on the catwalks that the ultimate showdown took place. From tiny shorts to slogan tees, here are the 25 spring/summer trends to remember.

Short-shorts vs. shorts

At Ami and Gucci, shorts hovered around the three-inch mark. Front row at Gucci, Irish actor Paul Mescal even embraced the short shorts trend in striped cotton boxers. Meanwhile, at Neil Barrett and Dior, shorts fell just above models' knees. Choose your fighter.

In bloom

Giorgio Armanis’ show was set to a video backdrop of floating palm trees, setting the tone for a collection that featured softly contoured photographic prints of palms and ferns on silky pajama-style ensembles and loose-fitting T-shirts. At Dior, Kim Jones looked to South African ceramicist Hylton Nel for inspiration: a sleek collarless jacket adorned with a blue-and-white floral motif that took more than 600 hours to hand-embroider looked like an heirloom vase on a mantelpiece. British designer Grace Wales Bonner, meanwhile, chose to celebrate the work of Trinidadian textile artist Althea McNish, known for her vibrant floral motifs.

Optical illusions

All is not what it seems, Loewes creative director Jonathan Anderson explained backstage. Models wore what appeared to be cable knit sweaters and T-shirts, but were actually painted to give the appearance of knitwear. Another model looked like she was battling the elements as the hem of her trench coat appeared to fly upwards, but it was designed to defy gravity. There was a similar fraudulent vibe at Prada where the low waistbands of the pants were actually belt designs. The contrast-colored collars that stuck out from the neat sweaters were sewn to look like separate pieces, while the underwired cuffs made the collars and cuffs look intentionally messy. Today, fakery is a very contemporary subject, thought Miuccia Prada backstage. What is wrong? what is the truth?

Sports heroes

With the Olympics just around the corner, some designers were in a sporty mood. Backstage at Fendi’s show, creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi showed an old photo pinned to her mood board of the Italian national football team on their way to the 1984 European Championship. She focused on the crest on their suit jackets, creating her own house motif that was applied to cricket jumpers and blazers with padded shoulders. Other looks had an ’80s golf vibe, with plaid trousers and jackets paired with baseball caps. At Louis Vuitton in Paris, Pharrell Williams wanted to celebrate human athletic prowess. There were shirts with LVFC written on them and a monogrammed LV bag shaped like a football, while other jackets had a motocross theme.

Relax

While tailoring still dominated the runways, this time it was relaxed rather than overly formal. In Milan, Neil Barrett showed navy and charcoal trousers with a sharp crease down the centre that juxtaposed their relaxed silhouettes. Giorgio Armani, a pioneer of soft tailoring, leaned into his original aesthetic with softly pleated trousers that harked back to his early ’80s collections. Meanwhile, at Loewe, there were bulbous trousers that had an almost spongy texture. Anderson reflects on their practice. Good news, they don’t require ironing.

All white

Bad news for coffee lovers: white monochrome looks were everywhere. They mainly came in the form of coordinated pieces inspired by workwear. Kim Jones revisited work jackets in porcelain white, while at Sacai, there were military field jackets and utility-inspired pants. Rick Owens even swapped his usual black palette for an all-white collection. A punchy color choice but impractical for those of us who like to eat spaghetti/take public transport.

Mesh moments

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Forget turtlenecks and understated t-shirts, the new way to wear unbuttoned blazers and jackets is to show some skin. At Gucci, oversized suits and coordinated short sets were paired with knitted polo shirts. Louis Vuitton's opening looks included fitted blazers and sheer cardigans placed over sheer LV designer tops. For those who don't want to reveal as much, take a cue from Amiri, who paired delicate lace shirts with white thermal-style cardigans.

All tied up

The tie discourse continued during the SS25 collections, with playful styling on display. Fendi’s traditional club ties were pinned up, while Wooyoungmi, a South Korean menswear label, layered chunky necklaces over theirs. Meanwhile, Martine Rose leaned into the novelty category with Bugs Bunny and dolphin motifs.

Spell it

Slogan T-shirts and sweaters aren’t going away anytime soon. Jonathan Anderson unveiled a collaboration with Guinness for his eponymous label. JW Anderson’s knitted crewnecks showcased the brand’s signature vintage iconography, including the smiling moon face, this time in pearls. Elsewhere, for his first menswear show for Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza showcased a phrase previously uttered by its founder, Franco Moschino: “It’s better to dress as you wish than as you ought,” on a simple white T-shirt. At Dior, Kim Jones put his own spin on Francis Bacon’s witticism, with tote bags and knitted sweatshirts branded Dior pour mes vrais amis.

High gloss

Designers proved that metallics aren’t just for the holiday season, bringing shimmer and shine to their spring runways. At Amiri and Dior, coats and jackets were peppered with sequins. Rick Owens’ White Satin Army of Love show featured 200 models and distressed metallic jackets with a vintage feel. Dries van Noten closed the chapter on his eponymous label, which launched more than 30 years ago, by celebrating its signature shimmering aesthetic. Utility jackets and shirts were crafted in sheer fabrics in jewel tones. Sparkling trenches and double-breasted jackets were also on show. Shine bright.

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