Fashion

The Beginnings of Fashion – The University of Sydney

Artist's impression of decorated tailored clothing in the Upper Paleolithic. Image credit: Mariana Ariza.

A team of researchers led by Dr Ian Gilligan, honorary associate in the discipline of archeology at the University of Sydney, are the first to suggest that eyed needles were a new technological innovation used to adorn clothing for social and cultural, marking the major shift from clothing as protection to clothing as an expression of identity.

Eyed needle tools are an important development in prehistory because they document a transition in the function of clothing from utilitarian to social use, explains Dr Ian Gilligan.

Dr Gilligan and his co-authors reinterpret the evidence for recent discoveries in the development of clothing in their paper,Paleolithic eye needles and the evolution of clothing.

Why do we wear clothes? We assume it’s part of being human, but once you look at different cultures, you realize that people existed and functioned perfectly well in society without clothes, says Dr. Gilligan. What intrigues me is the transition of clothing from a physical necessity in some environments to a social necessity in all environments.

The first known eyed needles appeared about 40,000 years ago in Siberia. One of the most iconic Paleolithic artifacts of the Stone Age, eyed needles are more difficult to make than bone awls, which were sufficient to create fitted clothing. Bone awls are tools made from animal bones sharpened to a point. Eyed needles are modified bone awls, with a perforated hole (eye) to facilitate sewing sinew or thread.

As evidence suggests that bone awls were already being used to create tailored clothing, the innovation of eyed needles may reflect the production of more complex and layered clothing, as well as the decoration of clothing by attaching beads and other small decorative objects to the garments.

We know that clothing until the last glacial cycle was only used occasionally. The classic tools we associate with this are skin scrapers or stone scrapers, and we find them appearing and disappearing during different phases of the last ice ages, Dr Gilligan explains.

Dr Gilligan and his co-authors argue that clothing became an element of decoration because traditional methods of body decoration, such as body painting with ochre or deliberate scarification, were not possible during the latter part of the last ice age in the coldest regions of Eurasia, as people needed to wear clothes all the time to survive.

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2/ https://www.sydney.edu.au/news-opinion/news/2024/06/29/the-beginnings-of-fashion.html

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