Leather Is So Durable It Will Follow Us Long After Fashion Designer Siobhn Curtis on Durability and Strength

NCAD graduate Siobhn Curtis' passion for leather began in Budapest. She has since honed her skills and uses sustainably sourced leather to craft her fluid, modern pieces.

“I learned how to work with leather during a course in Budapest, Hungary. The registration was in English, so I thought it would be fine, but when I arrived, everything was taught in Hungarian,” says fashion designer Siobhn Curtis with a laugh. “Her classmates helped her by translating,” she adds. “Even though I was learning leather, I didn't know any technical terms because of the language barrier.

Back at NCAD, Curtis did an internship at the Dublin Leather Store in Stoneybatter to fill his blind spots. I learned about traditional craftsmanship and then put my own conceptual spin on it. I worked alongside Ireland’s last master glover, Brian Horn.

Once his skills were perfected, Curtis began his concept piece, titled Fight or Flight. For my end-of-studies project, I started with the notion of stress. I am a very stressed person behind closed doors. I wondered what stress felt like. I began to create continuous shapes and movements to convey the buildup of stress.

I dipped a string in ink and placed it, in the pattern I wanted, on a sheet of paper. I folded the paper in half, then pulled the string through it. When you open it you get this abstract but symmetrical shape.

Curtis had hung the ink drawings in his studio when a student pointed out that they resembled Rorschach tests, a psychological testing method that uses images of inkblots; the viewer describes what they see and their responses are interpreted by a psychologist. It was a full-circle moment, Curtis says.

Her research allowed her to create a tangible form from which she could work and she began sculpting the winged leather piece, pictured above.

It has a cage shape underneath that can be taken apart and rebuilt into different shapes. Like an inkblot test, it can be perceived in several ways, Curtis says. During the pandemic, welding was one of those weird things I learned. My dad had some scrap metal and a soldering gun, so I found pieces I could work with.

The leather for the piece is made from scraps of leather upholstery fabric from a store in Monaghan. It was a waste, and I just asked if I could have it.

Curtis began making a dress to fit under her leather winged structure, but soon realized it was a separate piece. The black dress is made from vegetable tanned leather, which you can wet mold by stretching and shaping it.

The finished, striking piece was featured in Life in April, worn by Irish Eurovision entrant Bambie Thug.

Working with leather can be very controversial, Curtis says. I think as long as we have a meat and dairy industry, there’s going to be a byproduct of leather. That hide would end up in landfills if designers like her didn’t find a use for it, she says. It’s throwing away something that would outlive us. It’s such a durable product.

Instagram: @siobhan.curtis

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