Fashion
What would fashion look like if women were in charge?
This article is part of our new editorial dossier, in which we seek to answer the question: what would fashion look like if more women were in charge? Click here to find out more.
While attending the shows of the last women's ready-to-wear season in Paris, one question kept coming to my mind: why are there so few women at the top of an industry that caters to mainly to women? The collections, mostly designed by men, were gorgeous, sheer, sexy, short, with boobs, but it was hard to imagine wearing many of them.
Among the 30 biggest luxury brands in the world Business Vogue According to Index, seven artistic director positions are currently occupied by women: Maria Grazia Chiurri (Dior), Stella McCartney, Miuccia Prada (Prada and Miu Miu), Nadge Vanhee (Hermès), Donatella Versace (Versace) and Sandra Choi (Jimmy Choo). With the exception of Calvin Klein Collection, which named Veronica Leoni as head of the brand earlier this summer, most of the creative director roles open this year have gone to men. Virginie Viard left Chanel in June, while many wait with bated breath to see where Sarah Burton, the former artistic director of Alexander McQueen, will move forward.
And isn't making clothes that women can actually wear better for business? During Viard's tenure, Chanel's fashion business more than doubled. Dior's sales more than quadrupled since the arrival of Grazia Chiurri in 2016. In the meantime, according to the latest Business Vogue According to the Womenswear Size Inclusivity Report, three of the five most size-inclusive shows for fall/winter 2024 were led by women. Namely Sinad ODwyer, Ester Manas, and Edeline Lee. So why aren’t there more women at the top?
This conversation is as old as some of the biggest fashion houses. But with a few creative director positions still to be filled at Chanel, Givenchy and Dries Van Noten, among them, and a general, if slow, shift in the right direction, it’s now more relevant than ever.
So this week, at Vogue Businesswe look at some of the barriers and solutions for women working in fashion; Maliha Shoaib speaks to mothers in the industry about their experiences of parental leave, with the aim of understanding how companies can better support working parents. In a similar vein, Bella Webb examines the impact of menopause on a woman’s career and outlines some of the best strategies for employers to address this. The bottom line? Removing women from work too early is costing more than investing in our growth.
Elsewhere, Christina Binkley paints a revealing picture of the industry’s foundations from former Gucci CEO Robert Polet, while also examining why we tend to judge female creative directors more harshly. And on a dreamier, much lighter note, Madeleine Schulz imagines what our clothes would look like if more women designed them. Finally, Hilary Milnes and I turn to female executives in the beauty and fashion industries to understand just how harsh the fashion industry really is on women.
You can find all of the above at this link. We hope you enjoy it.
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