Men Spring/Summer 2014: Double-breasted suits

Double the fun

This year we have witnessed unprecedented diversity in men's suit making. From traditional gray and navy suits to a revival of classic checks and stripes, to bolder tones like burgundy, olive green and white, there truly is something for everyone. For those who want to go further, printed suits have even made their mark, with a multitude of designs from florals to polka dots. However, one aspect has not yet been addressed this season by Fashion Beans It’s the rise of the double-breasted silhouette. Many haute couture designers have offered double-breasted suits and jackets for the spring/summer 2014 season, and the general public has been quick to follow suit. So, are you ready to add some much-needed diversity to your formal wardrobe?

Designer collections

Ovadia & Sons is one of the lesser-known designer collections to feature a range of double-breasted pieces. Styled in a timeless way, standout looks included a traditional grey double-breasted suit paired with a white shirt, black tie and Oxford shoes. Ariel and Shimon, the twin brothers behind the brand, then showed a navy double-breasted blazer with gold buttons, worn open and layered over a long-sleeved Breton striped Henley. These were paired with white trousers and lace-ups for a nautical-inspired take on the trend. However, the highlight of the presentation was the ultra-sleek midnight blue double-breasted tuxedo with contrasting black lapels. Paired with a simple white shirt, black bow tie and black loafers with interesting oversized fabric details, it was the epitome of classic with a twist:

Berluti is another designer brand that has made the double-breasted suit the basis of its collection, albeit in a slightly more casual, but no less daring way. Artistic director Alessandro Sartori was clearly influenced by the 1920s and Gatsby the magnificentshowing an all-white outfit featuring a linen double-breasted suit paired with an off-white shirt, oversized bow tie, lace-up shoes and a boater hat. Another all-white ensemble paired wide-leg trousers and a double-breasted blazer with an open-neck tee and black and white patent dress shoes. The natural crinkle of the linen paired with the model’s full beard and rolled-up sleeves added a touch of nonchalance to the effortlessly elegant look. Berluti’s collection continued to prove how well double-breasted blazers can work as separates, pairing a camel jacket with ivory trousers. Similarly, the brand showed it’s not afraid to make a statement with colour, using purple, deep navy and burgundy tones throughout its range:

Taking a bolder approach to the trend, Prada combined rich double-breasted blazers and suits with statement floral-print pieces. Throughout the showcase, double-breasted jackets were often worn separately and came in either traditional black pinstripes or bright hues such as turquoise and ruby ​​red. One of the highlights of the collection was a khaki unstructured double-breasted suit. This season-appropriate option was dressed up with sneakers and a shirt in bold prints, making it a great option for summer events or weddings:

London Men's Collections: SS15

Although the double-breasted jacket has been in vogue for several years, many still consider this cut to be just a passing trend. However, if last week's London Collections: Men SS15 collections are to be believed, the double-breasted jacket is here to stay until at least 2015. Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies, Dunhill, Tiger of Sweden and Oliver Spencer have featured double-breasted jackets and suits in every cut, fabric and color imaginable:

How to wear

The crossover cut is often unfairly associated with gangsters of the 1940s and power-hungry businessmen of the 1980s, think Gordon Gecko Wall Streetor the famous gangster Al Capone. Double-breasted suits from these eras had a very boxy cut, often appearing oversized due to their thicker cut and extra-large lapels. In essence, they were designed to make the wearer look powerful and promote an air of intimidation. However, contemporary versions are much sleeker and sharper in shape, cut close to the torso with a more natural shoulder that emphasizes width without adding extra volume. Despite this, there's no denying that a double-breasted jacket naturally stands out more than its single-breasted counterpart and is designed to make a statement of confidence. If you want to add one to your wardrobe, keep the following guidelines in mind:

• Button choice: Six buttons are best suited to dressy, structured blazers, while two- or four-button jackets are more appropriate for smart-casual wear and casual dressing. Four-button styles are also a great choice for shorter men, helping to balance their proportions.
• Point backhand: A double-breasted jacket is a larger-than-life piece and so the details need to match. With this in mind, opt for peak lapels rather than notch lapels. These will not only create the illusion of a larger chest, but will also draw the eye upward to give the impression of height.
• The cup: Double-breasted jackets can be worn by all body types, as long as you keep the cut slim at the waist. In addition, high armholes and thinner sleeves will help create a more contemporary silhouette that will suit all body types.
• Jacket length: The length of a double-breasted jacket should be shorter than that of a standard suit blazer. This helps elongate the body by revealing more of your legs.
• Buttoning: You should always fasten the top button of a four- or six-button jacket, leaving the bottom button undone. There is no need to unbutton your jacket when you sit down, as you would with a single-breasted model.
• Keep it simple: As mentioned earlier, this type of cut makes a statement in itself, so there is no need to go overboard with your style. Pair with classic shirt and tie combinations or neutral wardrobe basics to let the jacket do the talking. Likewise, if this is your first foray into the double-breasted style, avoid patterned or brightly colored designs.

Of course, as with all things menswear, the most important thing is finding the right fit, perhaps even more so with a double-breasted suit. Ask your tailor to tailor the jacket to your specific body shape to avoid any association with the outdated, boxy aesthetic of the past.

Modern Lookbook Inspiration

Reaction of the fashion press

The reaction from the fashion press to the return of the double-breasted cut has been overwhelmingly positive. Shortlist The magazine placed double-breasted blazers at the top of its list of top seven spring 2014 trends and backed up the bold statement with a series of street style images showing stylish men sporting the look. These photos proved that the double-breasted jacket can be worn in a modern way without looking dated or pretentious. The publication also pointed out that the new silhouette is much more tailored, and while the double-breasted look is steeped in menswear tradition and history, it now seems extremely fashion-forward. GQ was another prominent advocate, with the magazine recently publishing an article on the dos and don'ts of double-breasted tailoring. This included everything from advice on how many buttons to fasten to the importance of fit and a good cut. Interestingly, GQ Mr Porter emphasized that the double-breasted suit is appropriate for any situation where one would normally wear its single-breasted counterpart, whether at the office, at a dinner party or for drinks after work. Mr. Porter endorsed this approach by including an article on his website featuring the double-breasted blazer and emphasizing that it can be worn to almost any occasion, including an opening, a luncheon birthday or summer party.

Key styles

Last word

A timeless silhouette adapted for the modern market, the double-breasted tailoring continues to make its mark on the industry and looks set to stay for the foreseeable future. Perfect for anyone looking to make a powerful and confident statement, whether at work or at a summer event, a neutral double-breasted blazer or suit in a breathable fabric and a slim, tailored cut makes a versatile addition to any warm-weather wardrobe. But do you think you’re confident enough to give double-breasting a try? Maybe you already are? As always, We appreciate your thoughts and reflections below