Last January, I was photographed by my local newspaper emerging from the icy waters of the Hampstead Heath lap pool in London, where I swim almost every day. It was the wake-up call I needed: the Lenny Kravitz six-pack is on the way, but smarter shorts should be easier to find.
In reality, my success rate with swimmers is low. Unlike most clothing, you can't tell if a swimsuit is good quality until you try it on in the water.
They're also full of details that can make a difference. Think about the placement of pockets, the choice of fabric, or the presence of small holes to let air out so that they don't propel you to the surface like a life jacket that inflates when it comes into contact with water. And size matters. If they're too big, they risk coming off every time you dive in. This adds a certain danger that may please some, but is generally frowned upon by other pool users.
I have a drawer full of pairs that are in almost mint condition. One, bought for swimming in a New Orleans hotel pool, floated around me in the water like a venomous jellyfish. And the flashy floral-print Quicksilver swim shorts I bought in Barbados were better suited to tequila shots on a 2005 Club 18-30 vacation than to ocean swimming.
For my new swim look, I wanted something short that I could crawl in, but also felt stylish enough to lounge on the beach or by the pool on vacation.
This year, David Morris, buying director at Mr Porter, has noticed a shift in customers looking for fun, printed swim shorts, versus the classic, plain styles that have historically been more popular.
Zegna has some great options in a bold stripe pattern, he continues. Straight leg and midi styles are the key shape, and we’ve also seen a rise in sports-style swim shorts. Mr Porter’s own label, Mr P, has a great pair. [125, mrporter.com] inspired by 70s runner styles.
Following her lead, I was drawn to a new brand called Abtany. Its swim shorts feature prints inspired by founder Sourena Ghaffari’s Persian heritage, which he hand-paints himself. I opted for a pair of navy Kashi swim shorts with a brushstroke pattern based on the blue tiles of the city of Isfahan (240, abtany.com). They felt wildly exuberant in the murky waters of Hampstead Pond, but well-suited to a recent trip to Comporta in Portugal, where they were up to the task of an invigorating dip in the Atlantic surf followed by a lobster roll at the beach bar.
Many people are opting for swim shorts that can pass for more formal wear, Ghaffari says. That means they don’t have to change if they decide to head to a nice fish restaurant on the beach for a glass of rosé. The trend is toward swimwear that’s versatile enough to be worn in a variety of social settings, not just in the water.
Equally high-end and colourful, the favourite of French bankers and lawyers on holiday, Vilebrequin, has produced a range of whimsical Gallic-inspired prints, such as the Eiffel Tower or tricolor athletes (230, crankshaft.com). The distinctive wide elastic waistband fits well and the attention to detail is everything you'd hope for in a pair of premium swim shorts. The fit is smart and snug, the metal eyelets on the back release trapped air and the back pocket is held closed with velcro to stop it filling with water.
Interestingly, the brand also collaborated on a line with The Woolmark Company, the industry body that sets wool standards. Using Australian merino wool, they created soft, lightweight shorts in simple, muted solid colors (210, crankshaft.com).
I had thought wool swimsuits had disappeared like Victorian washing machines. In fact, they have worked wonders. They are silky soft, produce minimal drag in the water and dry well too. Out of the water, they have a quiet luxury aesthetic although the distinctive Vilebrequin logo on the back waistband gives off a certain Porsche vibe.
A more affordable option is David Gandy Wellwear (55, davidgandywellwear.com). Available in just three solid colours (red, blue and green) and two lengths, these shorts feature many of the neat details of their more expensive pairs (the eyelets at the back, the contrasting drawstring) and the fit is pleasantly flattering.
For a more utilitarian experience, I tried the Finisterres Walker Hybrid Shorts (75, finisterre.com), which are designed to be amphibious, comfortable hiking shorts that you can jump into the water at any time and that dry quickly so you don't chafe on the way back. I found them comfortable enough to spend the day in on a trip to South Devon, walking coastal paths and swimming in sandy coves.
But hovering over my swimsuit adventures, like the gathering storm clouds in the classic John Cheevers story The swimmerThe little problem with the swimming trunks was an item of clothing I hadn't worn since school. The idea of donning a pair of budgie smugglers didn't appeal to me. But in the interest of thorough research, I kept an open mind, hoping to look more like Burt Lancaster in the 1968 film adaptation of Cheevers' story than Ray Winstone in Sexy beast.
According to Anders Krygell, co-founder of Danish swimwear brand Pond, around 10% of swimmers in Copenhagen now wear briefs. Krygell, a former professional swimmer, and three friends who all enjoy swimming in the city’s harbors, launched their swimwear brand in 2021.
Put off by the cold, damp, billowy fabric of regular swim shorts when going from the sauna to the seaside, they designed their perfect briefs with a 1970s aesthetic that sits wide on the hips, has a loop to hang them up to dry, and a drawstring to keep them securely fastened. Too tight? The brand also offers a boxy-cut brief (more like the Brazilian sunga style), the Pond 2 (75, pondcph.com), which offers a little more coverage.
For those who are not yet ready to accept what The bear Actor and Speedo-loving swimmer Ebon Moss-Bachrach famously rocked a banana hammock silhouette in a recent interview with GQ, and Pond also created a clever pair of short shorts ($109. pondcph.com) with a removable liner so they can function as running or swimming shorts or with the mesh interior removed, layer over your briefs on the way to your dive.
All things considered, it's the new Salvador lightweight shorts from Frescobol Carioca that I've been choosing most mornings to head to my morning pool (125, frescobolcarioca.com). They're fitted, short with a touch of athleticism but not skimpy, quick drying and chic enough to look great at a resort or hotel as well as my local lido on a sunny Saturday.
Now, about that six pack…
