Retail Industry Executives Predict What's Next – Footwear News

After a whirlwind June filled with fashion news from Florence, Milan and Paris, there’s a lot to digest from last month’s European Spring/Summer 2025 menswear shows.

And while loafers, mules and sandals dominated the runways, the reality is that most men are still focused on buying sneakers. According to recent data from Circana’s retail tracking service, the top footwear categories for men this spring were running and athletic sneakers. Unsurprisingly, running sneakers were driven by the much larger road running segment as well as trail running. And when it came to athletic sneakers, that segment was primarily driven by retro sneakers with roots in tennis, soccer and training.

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Together, running and athletic shoes accounted for about half of men's footwear sales this spring and gained share compared to last year, Circana noted. Interestingly, the fashion footwear category as a whole declined and lost share during the period. However, the retail analytics firm noted some growth in flip-flops, which were up 2% in May compared to last year.

What’s next? To find out, FN sat down with Saks and Nordstrom executives to discuss the shoe trends that dominated European spring 2025 runways last month, this season’s most talked-about shows, and the most surprising moments from Paris and Milan.

Which shoe trends stood out the most this season at European trade fairs?

Reginald Christian, Senior Director of Men's Fashion at Saks: “This season, the boat shoe was undoubtedly the most talked about in Europe. Its originality came from its interesting colourways, updated fabrications and quality construction. Valentino offered a floral print model. Santoni presented it in a beautiful pastel blue suede that was soft and cool to the touch. Loewe added its iconic round toe to the boat shoe, bringing a playful touch to the trend. Mules also made a strong appearance with clean silhouettes and elevated suede. The refined sandal was another key trend this season, seen in Church’s fisherman styles and Isaia’s embossed crocodile and leather sandals, which showcased practical trends for both formal and casual meetings.”

Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom Men's Fashion Director: “The shows were filled with low-top sneakers and fisherman sandals. On the runway, dress shoes were plentiful, with more muted brogues and colorful sneakers from Prada, patent leather brogues from Junya Watanabe, and easy-to-wear derbies and loafers like Lemaire’s.”

What surprised you this season? Was there an unexpected silhouette or material that came up frequently?

Christian: “I’m not surprised, but rather pleased with this season’s footwear, which pairs perfectly with the more relaxed ready-to-wear styles seen on the runways. The retro-runner sneaker, a ’70s-style sneaker with ultra-flat soles and suede and nylon uppers, was a rising trend this season, seen at Prada, Valentino, Dries Van Noten and Loewe. This season, suede was a hot material, and pastel-colored iterations resonated most with seasonality.”

DeLeon: “Grace Wales Bonner and Undercover both offered two takes on the collapsible heel: Wales Bonner reworked the Adidas Country into a low-top silhouette, and Jun Takahashi softened the patent leather derby with a louche edge. There was plenty of ultra-soft leather bringing newness to the sneaker world, from Prada’s colorful renditions to Adidas’ collaborations with brands like Song For the Mute and Brain Dead that reimagined silhouettes like the Stan Smith and Superstar through the lens of lived-in comfort.”

Are you seeing any new themes or influences in the designer sneaker market?

Christian: “Travel and stylish outerwear were key themes this season, and designers responded to the demand for versatile, comfortable styles that didn’t compromise on design. Dior presented a more artisanal and eye-catching take on the trail sneaker, and Gucci supported the theme with eye-catching styles in lilac, slate and brown; both iterations will provide excitement for our customers.”

DeLeon: “Shoes continue to move closer to the ground as shapes become more voluminous, providing a contrast to the breathable fit while allowing garments to become the focal point of an outfit. The new statement shoe is one that ties everything together seamlessly, rather than being the focal point of a look.”

What's the new men's style without sneakers? Are loafers still the trend for spring 2025?

Christian: “Loafers remain relevant in spring 2025 menswear styles, especially in flexible silhouettes. However, we were pleased to see sturdy sandals, mules and boat shoes add a much-needed update to menswear rotations.”

DeLeon: “Boat shoes and similar loafers are set to make a huge comeback if this season is anything to go by. Just as casual as loafers, but with a beach-inspired twist that’s perfectly suited to the city and not necessarily the harbor, especially in sleek colors like all-black and chocolate brown.”

What was one of the most talked about shows during your travels this season?

Christian: “Gucci and Prada also generated exceptional buzz and were much talked about in Milan. Rick Owens remained in our minds throughout the market thanks to his epic production and message of unity. Dries Van Noten’s latest show had a huge impact and allowed us to champion fashion and our admiration for such a talented designer.”

DeLeon: “Definitely Rick Owens' 'Hollywood' show, with its phalanxes of models all wearing similar outfits. The tone-on-tone ivory version of his gigantic Geobasket sneaker is certainly one that will be appreciated by Owens acolytes old and new.”