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Can small brands thrive in Paris?

 


This season, Obegero teamed up with Apple to create a fashion film, which it screened at the famed Parisian venue Silencio des Prés, followed by a conversation with filmmaker and journalist Loc Prigent and a static presentation of its collection. Apple provided an iPhone to photographer Marcel Nestler and director Kelly CWK to shoot Obegero’s lookbook and film, respectively, while each look in the presentation was accompanied by an iPad featuring the designer’s illustrations.

The designer told me he was abandoning wholesale altogether and moving toward a bespoke approach. “I realized that wholesale wasn’t a viable system for me right now,” Obegero says. “If a boutique is interested in us or an exclusive collection, I’m more than interested, but I want to focus on making custom or commissioned pieces,” he continues. “Bridal has become a big category for Obegero, as has celebrity and artist dressing.” He also skipped the winter season in January. “It’s extremely difficult to survive in this industry. We can’t compete with the big brands, we have to take it slow and steady and create our own calendars,” Obegero says. “I dress the biggest stars, but I still work from home with a small domestic sewing machine. The reality of being a young designer is not just what is shown or worshipped on Instagram.”

Make noise

At the same time, big brands are becoming louder and flashier, especially in Paris. Unlike London or New York, where smaller brands shape fashion and the adjacent cultural landscape—think Sandy Liang’s bow-tie craze in New York or the buzz of a designer like Mowalola in London—Paris’s heavyweights have the deepest pockets and are determined to make their shows exist outside of themselves. It’s part of a larger effort to make the brand a key part of culture.

Smaller brands aren’t so lucky. Obegero has been lucky enough to be part of major cultural events, like Styles’ As It Was music video or Beyoncé’s Renaissance World Tour, but when it comes to the Paris Fashion Week landscape, its presence is smothered by the big names it faces.

Still, independent brands are banking on Paris as their best bet to make a splash in the menswear industry. A few weeks ago, I sat down with Evan Kinori, a California-based menswear designer who has become (and deservedly so) legendary. Kinori has made a name for himself in the menswear world with his slow, artisanal approach to fashion. He has a retail boutique in San Francisco, but he shows his collections in Paris twice a year to wholesalers. “There’s no point fighting it,” Kinori says. The system works, he explains, and the industry is already there, ready to discover and embrace new designers.

That’s why it’s important for these designers to take an offbeat approach to the week. Obegero’s presentation was well-attended and well-received. This shift allows designers like him to continue to be part of the circuit in a way that fits the current shape of his business. Paris may not be the city where independent designers have it easy right now, but if they’re savvy enough to stand out, they can be sure to make an impact. Maybe not during Fashion Week, but certainly beyond. Isn’t that what matters most?

Comments, questions or feedback? Send us an email at [email protected].

More information on this topic:

Key points of Paris Men's Fashion Week

The Final Show: Behind the Scenes with Dries Van Noten

French fashion industry fears impact of far-right

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