Can Berlin Fashion Week Expand Its International Presence?

State Secretary Biel said cooperation with other fashion weeks around the world was a key element of his strategy to expand the city's international reach. There are not many cities that show political support [for fashion week]. [CEO] Cecilia [Thorsmark] “Copenhagen Fashion Week even asked me to come to Copenhagen to talk to my political colleagues and show them that there is another way of doing things,” he adds.

Berlin's intervention

Some of the season’s most anticipated shows took place as part of Intervention, a brand showcase now in its second year, organized by local communications agency Reference Studios (which also has offices in Milan and London, and whose clients include Gucci, Acne Studios, and Gentle Monster). Reference Studios founder and CEO Mumi Haiati considers Intervention to be Berlin International. This year, Intervention welcomed GmbH, who presented her designs in her hometown for the first time, knitwear legend Claudia Skoda, who designed for David Bowie in the ’70s, Shayne Oliver’s Anonymous club, and Yeezy Gap alum Marie Lueder (the latter two also presented last season). All of Intervention’s shows were held in different spaces within the iconic Tempodrom event venue (formerly a circus tent) in the artsy Kreuzberg district.

Brands from the inner circle of Reference Studios are invited to the program. Haiati says he looks for a strong design language, an understanding of the zeitgeist as well as connections to Berlin culture and promising international potential. Haiati also talks to international buyers and the press about which designers have the most potential. [designers] “Creators are really essential to the city,” Haiati says. “If you know the scene, the communities, the creative tribes in Berlin, they are the ones leading the way and driving these conversations. So I’m incredibly proud to have brought them all together and to have them from different generations. The goal is to nurture these creators and create a platform with a stronger positioning and international relevance,” he says.

A vape artist (left) opened Lueder's SS25 show.

Photo: Finnegan Koichi Godenschweger

Lueders’ show, which drew the attention of buyers, press, and notable industry figures, opened with a performance by a vape artist who blew smoke in circular patterns, followed by a collection inspired by traditional alchemical processes (the designer draws inspiration from medieval armor in her designs and silhouettes in each collection). She plans to stay in Berlin: I think the sales are in Paris, but everything else [such as the show] It could be anywhere else, she said backstage.

In addition to Intervention, Reference Studios hosted Oliver’s multi-brand exhibition, Mall of the Anonymous, and a new showcase for German talent, Reference Forum, which again attracted international attention. “We need these kinds of people and agencies with international contacts to bring people from abroad to Berlin and to make Berlin labels known to the world, and Reference Studios does a fantastic job,” says Biel.

First, you have to create desire, Haiati explains. Then, step by step, you also have to create relevance for businesses.

Comments, questions or feedback? Send us an email at [email protected].

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