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Here's Why You Should Know How Circular Fashion Works

Here's Why You Should Know How Circular Fashion Works

 


For years, the fashion industry has been making seemingly empty promises about a more sustainable future. Despite the creation of organizations and committees advocating for greener practices, fast fashion companies continue to profit from the frenzy of trend cycles and widespread consumer ignorance.

Who has time to think about where their favourite top comes from, the working conditions of the people who made it and the environmental impact it has once it’s thrown away? Most of us will only wear a top for a season, before we feel the need to reinvent ourselves and start a new wardrobe.

Piles of textile waste are dumped on the shores of Chorkor Beach in Accra, Ghana, Friday, Sept. 16, 2022. The rise of fast fashion and consumers’ preference for quantity over quality have led to a glut of low-value clothing that is placing a disproportionate burden on developing countries. Photographer: Andrew Caballero-Reynolds/Bloomberg via Getty Images

This practice has drawn a lot of criticism for a variety of reasons. Imagine a landfill filled with micro tops from Shein and the hottest “It girl” dresses from Zara. TikTok videos proclaiming, “You NEED this sweater dress from Target,” only to have it end up in a Goodwill bin before the end of the year.

But why should a consumer be deprived of the freedom to explore and experiment with their style? If we all have a responsibility to protect the planet, isn’t it the responsibility of companies to manage the impact of their products on the environment?

In the United States only, up to 85% of all textiles end up in landfills each year, largely due to inefficient practices during the design and product development stages. At the same time, global fashion consumption has increased by 400%, while overall product usage has fallen by about 40%.

Bales of second-hand clothing at the Kantamanto textile market in Accra, Ghana, on Thursday, Sept. 15, 2022. The rise of fast fashion and consumers’ preference for quantity over quality have led to a glut of low-value clothing that is placing a disproportionate burden on developing countries. Photographer: Andrew Caballero-Reynolds/Bloomberg via Getty Images

However, some fashion industry figures are taking steps to establish a more circular business model, as circular fashion involves establishing a closed-loop system where materials and products are systematically reused or recycled, with the aim of minimizing waste and promoting sustainability.

Stella McCartney is a leading voice for circularity in fashion. Her brand focuses on sustainable materials, circular design principles, closed-loop systems, and policy advocacy. Her brand incorporates organic and recycled materials, sustainable and recyclable designs, and encourages garment repair and recycling. While Stella McCartney is a leader in the industry, consumers also have to contend with deceptive tactics like greenwashing, which mislead them into believing that their favorite fast fashion brands are practicing sustainability.

MILAN, ITALY – JUNE 14: Stella McCartney poses with a sign that reads “SOS” during the Stella McCartney presentation during Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2020 on June 14, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images)

In 2019, The Norwegian Consumer Authority (CA) has criticised H&M for its lack of transparency regarding the environmental benefits of its Conscious Collectionhighlighting concerns about possible greenwashing in its marketing. The AC argued that without clear information, consumers could have been misled into thinking that H&M products were more sustainable than they actually were. H&M responded by expressing its willingness to improve communication with consumers based on the AC’s feedback.

H&M’s marketing has remained ambiguous, particularly around the term “conscious,” lacking clarity on what sustainability meant for its products. This lack of clarity extended to H&M’s annual sustainability report, leaving consumers unsure about the true environmental impact of their purchases. Gen Z is combating this deception by forgoing buying new clothes altogether, leading to the rise of secondhand fashion. Thanks to online communities and apps like Depop, Thredup, and even luxury retailer The RealReal, Gen Z has a new way of shopping.

Lola Tung at the Coachtopia Launch Dinner: Hosted by Stuart Vevers and Joon Silverstein on April 20, 2023 in New York, New York. (Photo by Lexie Moreland/WWD via Getty Images)

By 2027, the second-hand resale market will be worth $370 billionThe emergence of online second-hand shopping platforms has put an end to the uncertainty of second-hand shopping (consider digging through donation bins to find something decent), making it a thing of the past. It is now a personalized experience, giving you the ability to filter products according to your desires, even by size and brand.

For those who still need to be convinced by the idea of ​​second-hand and prefer to own their products first, the search for a more sustainable option continues. In a complex landscape that mixes authentic sustainability efforts with deceptive practices, consumers approach the topic with skepticism. What better way to solve this problem than to invite consumers into your process, showing them exactly how their clothes are made? That’s where Coach’s innovative sub-brand, Coachtopiaemerges as a beacon of change, offering consumers unprecedented insight into the creation and life cycle of products.

Coachtopia, launched in 2023 and created for Gen Z, focuses on circular craftsmanship and collaborative creativity, with the goal of moving the brand toward a fully circular business model. The brand aims to reduce the creation of new materials by manufacturing from waste and designing products that can be reimagined, remade, and recycled to live multiple lives.

In their new initiative, The path to circularity The Coachtopia docuseries invites a global audience to explore the advancements in sustainable fashion practices and pave the way for a circular future. In the first episode, “Crafting from Leftovers,” we join sustainable fashion influencer Aditi Mayer on a trip to Chennai, India. Here, she explores KH Exports, a longtime leather manufacturer that has partnered with Coach since 1987.

For Coachtopia, KH Exports reinvents Coach’s surplus leather into a new raw material. Mayer delves into KH’s meticulous processes, from sorting scraps into their “leather scrapyard” to prototyping, material design, and production. At the same time, she uncovers the personal stories of the community of artisans and innovators who embrace these challenges with fervor and creativity.

In her exploration, Mayer uncovers the innovative techniques behind Coachtopia’s recycled leather. The process ingeniously transforms irregular scraps of leather into exquisite, suede-like materials using heat and pressure, each with a distinctive pattern and texture. She also highlights the need for brands and consumers to reevaluate conventional beliefs, such as the pursuit of perfection in fashion.

The scene at the Coachtopia Launch Dinner: Hosted by Stuart Vevers and Joon Silverstein on April 20, 2023 in New York, New York. (Photo by Lexie Moreland/WWD via Getty Images)

It’s surprising to think that because of our cultural mindset of perfection, the natural grain of leather can be seen as a flaw, leading to more waste, Mayer explains in a conversation with the KH production team. It makes me realize that circularity isn’t just about changing the way we manufacture, it’s about changing the way we think. As a new, more sustainable generation gains economic clout, brands that prioritize sustainability will undoubtedly thrive. Coach’s Coachtopia docuseries is not only a showcase of their commitment to sustainability, it’s a testament to the industry’s shift toward a more environmentally friendly future.

Watch the first episode of Coach's new documentary series Coachtopia in its entirety, HERE.

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