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Fashion designers struggle to make masks. Here’s why.

 


For some designers working alone, the lack of consensus was exasperating. We should have a centralized voice, says Naomi Mishkin, creator of the Brooklyn-based Naomi Nomi line, who spent the weekend working with manufacturing partners in the Garment District to identify the best materials and design for a mask. . If the [government] wants to lead the way, we should leave them, but wait.


Even in the best of worlds, most fashion designers do not have the supplies and manufacturing capabilities to make N95 respirators. Named for its ability to block 95% of micron test particles through a seal around the nose and mouth, they are the favorite masks of health professionals who treat patients with the virus and remain alarming. Industrial manufacturers have mobilized to remedy this deficiency. Earlier this week, Honeywell announced that it would increase production of N95 masks, the manufacturer planning to hire around 500 people next week and last week, 3M said it had doubled its production in the past two months. The United States Department of Health and Human Services intends to order 500 million of these masks, which they say will be delivered to hospitals over the next 18 months.

As for mass production of surgical masks, a consortium of clothing manufacturers, led by Parkdale Mills America, North Carolina yarn maker partners with Hanes and the federal government to modernize their factories to start the production of masks. They are expected to produce five to six million masks per week.

The European fashion and manufacturing industries have been quicker to respond to their own mask shortages: Kering, Prada and LVMH have has announced plans to manufacture or purchase masks. In the United States, it is difficult to identify an equivalent fashion conglomerate with access to a vast network of factories. The major American fashion brands have not intensified either (apart from L.L. Bean, who partnered with a local Maine food bank), as New york times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman pointed out. Mishkin explains that a number of the designers with whom she spoke were unable to join the mask production movement because they are not domestically produced, but rather rely on samples and numbers of production in China; only about 3 percent of the clothes sold in America are made here. Ralph Lauren, for example, makes much of his clothing Italy and Chinaand Tommy Hilfiger also makes his clothes abroad. I would love to do everything in America if I could find the factories, said Hilfiger Bloomberg in 2017. They don’t exist here in America.

Thus, the fashion brands that produce the masks are, for the most part, companies with a more modest staff and with national manufacturing links. Guided only by the rudimentary instructions of the CDC, they find it difficult to obtain equipment from vendors who are often unfamiliar with these industrial or medical grade fabrics. For masks, you should really use some sort of non-woven fabric, says Gabrielle Ferrara, partner of Ferrara Manufacturing, a Garment District company founded by her parents in 1987 that is one of the top women’s clothing factories in the world. range from the United States. according to his websiteand now makes masks. Cotton, for example, does not have the filtration properties that polyester or some nonwovens can have. But, she notes, it is difficult for fashion companies to appropriate these fabrics. They are not really your typical fashion sellers. We have to do a little more work collectively to get these materials, because they are not part of the mainstream fashion ecosystem.



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