Fashion
Meet Paolina Russo, the Canadian-born designer, recycling sportswear into unique creations
As a Canadian from Markham, Ontario, designer Paolina Russo never imagined having a career in fashion. Having grown up in the suburbs, I didn’t know anyone who was a designer or even worked in fashion, she says. Despite everything, Russo, who is now based in London, has always grown up with an innate desire to create and she often had to be creative in order to produce ideas that floated in her head. I always made my own clothes, she says. I used to shop at Value Village and try to recreate things that I saw in Vogue.
Russo started experimenting with fashion by infusing his environment with his creations; in Canada, that meant everything related to sport and which continues to be the main inspiration for his work today. With all of my collections, it’s like this huge Frankenstein mix of all the sports you played when you were a kid, says Russo. There was not much to do in Markham other than the sport. I played football when I was very young, then I did tae kwon for several years.
Before moving to London in 2013 to study at Central Saint Martinsfirst fine art, then fashion design with an emphasis on knitwear Russo began to take a serious look at design at Markham. She created objects made from found objects (she and her sister were mainly in arts and crafts), or pieces resembled discarded sports equipment. I love being able to transform objects and materials into something you don’t expect. I think it’s really beautiful, said Russo. My aunt was the head of the Markham football club, and lots of people there just gave me all their old equipment: jerseys and stuff like that. She ended up using many of these sports materials in her first B.A. collection at Central Saint Martins, shown in 2018. I worked a lot with recovered materials: recycling shoes and sneakers in corsets and dresses, she says.
During his first years at school, Russo did an internship with John Galliano at Maison Margiela, an experience that still shaped him as a designer. I have to work closely with him on the Artisanal team, explains Russo. Seeing him develop a collection from start to finish was an inspiration and it really helped me imagine for myself how I would do it. She quickly had the opportunity to do it on a larger scale: in 2019, a year after having presented her graduate collection for the first time, the work of Russos caught the attention of Adidas for a special collaboration. With two other London-based designers, she participated in a group exhibition with the brand during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which is not a bad achievement while being a student. We only had two days to do it; it was crazy, said Russo du capsule collection, which included its tripping versions of the brand’s performance clothing, including optical illusion bustiers and cycling shorts. They were all made with the Russos signature: knitwear. (Variants of these models are now available on Ssense.) She also made her shoe debut too. Their Super Court Trainer was out that year, so I turned it into a boot, adds Russo.
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