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Wolk Morais, Dur Doux and more at New York Fashion Week create shock of past and present



WOlk Morais

If you don’t know how terrible the world is, to put it mildly to go for 10, the good news is New York Fashion Week won’t let you forget, while trying to sell yourself some clothes. The prevailing vibe in the first videos of this almost runway pandemic fashion week has been the shocking contrast of really expensive and expensive things to wear paired with an air of ominous reflection.

There is nothing wrong, as Wolk Morais and many others have done, in pointing out that this Fashion Week is taking place during a pandemic, at a time of racial and cultural awareness and overwhelming political angst. . Yet Planet Fashion is always reassuring Planet Fashion, and my favorite quote spoken during the gorgeous Wolk Marais video celebrating Hollywood’s resilience was the energies I miss, which one man says as models strut and pose. in a delightful collection of fitted, tweedy plus four waistcoats, tight silver shorts and baggy trouser suits (including houndstooth), looking sadly and confrontational to the camera.

This video, Led, won the award for best fashion film at the London Fashion Film Festival. The precise and impressive style spans decades, with a heavy 1940s vibe that fits in with the 70s disco era, as if Studio 54 had left town for a weekend of filming. The collection has nuances of both nostalgia and very contemporary angst; a marriage and a shock of the past and the present. So, like a lot of things at New York Fashion Week in September 2020, you’ll be smiling at the beautiful clothes and lavishly directed imagery, and you’ll also feel a little shitty about everything. Tim teeman

Colleen Allen

For her first appearance at NYFW, Colleen Allen took the idea of ​​directing a digital show literally, putting her clothes on CGI models walking the empty, dystopian streets of New York City. Each has come from a subway entrance in drawn versions of costumes made by the Central Saint Martins graduate, who favors futuristic menswear meets Y2K like chunky cargo pants, mesh tank tops and oversized blazers. As creative (and creepy) as the digitized models can be, these clothes are smart enough to be worn by real people. Alaina Demopoulos

Hard Soft

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