If you don’t know how terrible the world is, to put it mildly to go for 10, the good news is New York Fashion Week won’t let you forget, while trying to sell yourself some clothes. The prevailing vibe in the first videos of this almost runway pandemic fashion week has been the shocking contrast of really expensive and expensive things to wear paired with an air of ominous reflection.
There is nothing wrong, as Wolk Morais and many others have done, in pointing out that this Fashion Week is taking place during a pandemic, at a time of racial and cultural awareness and overwhelming political angst. . Yet Planet Fashion is always reassuring Planet Fashion, and my favorite quote spoken during the gorgeous Wolk Marais video celebrating Hollywood’s resilience was the energies I miss, which one man says as models strut and pose. in a delightful collection of fitted, tweedy plus four waistcoats, tight silver shorts and baggy trouser suits (including houndstooth), looking sadly and confrontational to the camera.
This video, Led, won the award for best fashion film at the London Fashion Film Festival. The precise and impressive style spans decades, with a heavy 1940s vibe that fits in with the 70s disco era, as if Studio 54 had left town for a weekend of filming. The collection has nuances of both nostalgia and very contemporary angst; a marriage and a shock of the past and the present. So, like a lot of things at New York Fashion Week in September 2020, you’ll be smiling at the beautiful clothes and lavishly directed imagery, and you’ll also feel a little shitty about everything. Tim teeman
For her first appearance at NYFW, Colleen Allen took the idea of directing a digital show literally, putting her clothes on CGI models walking the empty, dystopian streets of New York City. Each has come from a subway entrance in drawn versions of costumes made by the Central Saint Martins graduate, who favors futuristic menswear meets Y2K like chunky cargo pants, mesh tank tops and oversized blazers. As creative (and creepy) as the digitized models can be, these clothes are smart enough to be worn by real people. Alaina Demopoulos
Dur Doux, a label run by mother / daughter team Cynthia and Najla A. Burt, made its colorful NYFW debut. Based in Washington, but keeping dreams of distant travel as their inspiration, the Dur Doux women have created garments that are shiny, textured and just plain fun.
Mini skirts were lively with voluminous, capri pants were paired with tulle tops, and a tiger-patterned cape topped an evening dress. There are over a million reasons to wish for a pre-COVID and entertaining return to life; the Burts reminded us of a not so distant past where dressing was a part of life and was a lot of fun to do. A D
According to notes from Michelle Duncans’ show, the New York designer is building armor for sharper girls who have gone business, but also for those who prefer their tailoring with a hint of glamor after dark.
What does this mean exactly? Take a look at her NYFW collection filled with low waists, pleated skirts and a black and white color palette. The hems are long and the collars high, but the modesty gets nasty with the addition of fishnet gloves and combat boots. It’s a polished, punky evolution of the Prairie dress trend that allows women to cover up and still be sexy.A D
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