Rebecca Minkoff had the distinction of being one of the few designers to have presented a physical show at New York Fashion Week this season. What in seasons past was such a deep line that a participant would wonder if they were offering free clothes, was now limited to a select group of editors, buyers, stylists and influencers who lined up. in their creator from head to toe. sets for temperature controls and official NYFW wristbands.
Social distancing was marked by circles that guests stood on to make sure attendees stayed six feet apart, after which Fashion Week staff escorted them in a freight elevator as if on their way to a guided tour of a museum.
Once on the rooftop terrace of Spring Studios, the main venue for New York Fashion Week during the non-coronavirus era, guests were greeted with a series of lounge-style vignettes and a setup like a club venue. rock, where models have draped themselves around furniture featuring furniture. Minkoff’s latest collection.
Eclecticism was the mother of invention for Minkoff. If you were the woman who wanted a brown leather jacket with zipper details, a gray ruffle sweater, or a head-to-toe leopard print outfit, there was a look to lean into. Oh, and let’s not forget the face masks available in a variety of coordinating styles, from floral prints to zebra prints. The Minkoff Woman is ready for any occasion, whether it’s the mall, work or a global pandemic. Kristopher fraser
If only all quarantines could be like the one depicted in Eric Rohmers’ 1967 French filmThe Collector, where four young people spend their summer in a rented house in Saint-Tropez and spend their days drinking wine, sunbathing and debating sex politics.
Social work Designer Chenghui Zhang took inspiration from history, infusing bohemian ’70s nods with looser’ 90s vibes for her distinctly retro range. The women she chose to model her clothes, all the friends who talked a bit about their origins and their dreams for the future seemed really comfortable and confident in their outfits. Pieces like a long chocolate silk open-back dress paired with flared plaid pants exuded an easy personality.
Clothing can be a bit funky, but it still has a mass appeal. (Anytime we’re allowed out safely, I’d love to do it in a pleated leather skirt and a matching corset top.) If the buyers are good at their job, they’ll pick them up quickly so we can make a living from our best. French New Wave is coming to life next summer. Alaina Demopoulos
The children may not be well. LRS’s spared interpretation of streetwear looks like an inevitably dark reflection of our time. There are some very dramatic splashes of color in the LRS collection, but it’s mostly all about black, white, and gray, with tortured silhouettes and a gritty aesthetic that seems absolutely born out of the pandemic era. .
LRS uses very skilled scissors for conventions, so the sweaters acquire panels and the chains form breastplates. Strange lengths and shapes tease the eye. It’s about clothes as a statement, sometimes quite literally. A beautiful red striped dress has the words No Justice, No Peace on its train. Tim teeman
Evoking a spirit of grandeur that now seems lost in the past, Bibhu Mohapatra showcased a range of opulent dresses in chic frames. The show was dedicated to Amrita Sher-Gil and all the intrepid performers who dare to dream. Sher-Gil was an Indo-Hungarian, Jewish-Sikh avant-garde painter, active in the first half of the 20th century.
Modeled by a cast of women of color, including Ariana DeBose of Hamilton Renowned as a muse and actress Surina Jidal playing Amrita, the mini-film reimagined a recreation of Amrita painting her subjects. The dresses were made of voluminous satins and cascading tulle, and a voiceover narrated a thoughtful reflection of determination, as the models strolled through a large lawn, lounging on velvet sofas and posing for paintings.Sarah shears
If the label Five Seven were an archetype in their forties, they would be the friend who goes hiking every weekend. According to the exhibit notes, the collection was inspired by an appreciation for having the freedom to explore and enjoy the rich offerings of colors and textures. (Must be nice!)
Led by Jane Siskin, the line has always been easily wearable, Michelle Obama used to wear FLOTUS clothing, which is worn in department stores like Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. But what does portable mean during a pandemic that has relegated us all (except for the said Upstate Friend) inside? For Siskin, comfort with a touch: satin cargo pants, beige shirt dresses, coordinated sets with elastic waistband. It’s not particularly inspiring, but it’s reliable, which will surely appease its target demographic. A D
Who decides the war
Ev Bravado, the creative director of Who decides the war and sometimes collaborator of Virgil Abloh, has diversified into women’s ready-to-wear this season. He brought in Tla DAmore to create versions of his iconic distressed denim looks for female bodies. The title of the collection, A Little Calm Voice, is taken from a Bible verse; stained glass windows and Christian images appeared on jeans and embroidered jackets.
Another familiar iconography was also present, such as a burning American flag sweater with the brand’s logo on it. It was reminiscent of an old patriotic Ralph Lauren or Gap cardigan remade for 2020. It’s no surprise Who Decides War has won fans like Billie Eilish, Beyonc and Kehlani. The oversized tailoring is modern, with just a hint of ’90s vintage. Even though the brand is branching out into women’s clothing for the first season, many pieces of clothing appear genderless or unisex. A D
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