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Gender fluid is the future of New York men’s day




New York Men’s Day certainly looked a little different this year, taking the virtual approach like 97% of New York Fashion Week. This season’s ten designer crop included Apotts, Carter Young, David Hart, Future Lovers of Tomorrow, Ka Wa Key, Official Rebrand, Stan, Teddy Vonranson, Timo Weiland and Wataru Tominaga. Called New York Men’s Day, the fluid genre fashion has become one of the biggest highlights of the digital iteration of New York Men’s Day. Apotts, Ka Wa Key, Official Rebrand and Wataru Tominaga all showcased fluid genre collections.

Gender fluid is the future of New York men's day

Apotts chose to explore not only the dynamics of the genre, but also the race, with their collection drawing inspiration from the Upside Down Doll, a toy popularized in the Southern United States in the early 19th century. When flipped to one end a black doll dresses in bondage and bondage cloths appeared, when flipped to the other end a finely dressed white doll appears. Both dolls represent a nuanced interpretation of racial dynamics disguised as society. The clothes in this collection, similar to the doll, have been turned and returned, reinventing the construction and juxtaposition of dolls. Pieces such as cotton shirts, denim dresses, and babydolls and petticoats have all been reimagined with exaggerated proportions. It was a message that regardless of race or gender, we can all benefit from dressing up.

Gender fluid is the future of New York men's day

Based in London, Ka Wa Key was inspired by the theme of nowhere like home. This led to a whimsical collection of brightly patterned clothing in all shades of the rainbow and clothing worthy of a weird love story. There was no concept of gender here, but rather love was love. The brand is also proving how the fluid gender-based fashion movement is gaining ground, as it has chosen retail partners including Urban Outfitters, Opening Ceremony and Han Style Korea.

Gender fluid is the future of New York men's day

For MI Leggett of Official Rebrand, gender fluid fashion has never been a trend, but the antithesis of their brand’s DNA. This season, the designer, who identifies as non-binary and uses them / them / their pronouns, has focused his collection on the anti-waste emergency and social unrest throughout history. Leggett took discarded clothes and ‘rebranded’ them, as is their usual process, introducing a collection without gender binary constraints that was part of upcycled art and fashion.

Gender fluid is the future of New York men's day

Wataru Tominaga debuted at New York Fashion Week with an eclectic collection inspired by photographic flower prints from the 70s, embroidery of someone’s apron, mascots from unknown brands and the accumulation of visual memorabilia random like a patchwork. Multi-brand button-down shirts and maximalist patterned t-shirts could be a good fit for any client, male or female. Sure, some rooms might have seemed a bit busy, but it might take a busy outfit to distract from the genre binary.

Gender fluid is the future of New York men's day

It might be New York Men’s Day, but men’s fashion is experiencing a moment of gender fluidity. At the end of the day, there are no clothes for men or women, just clothes.

photos: courtesy of Agentry PR

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