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Can you possibly call yourself the main character of any sort of mysterious spy caper if you’re not wearing a pea coat? If you are a Squire editor, these are the kind of deep existential questions that keep you from sleeping at night, twisting and turning in your bed before indulging in restless dreams about the best dressed spies in movie history.
There was Robert Redford in Three days of the Condor, the 1975 thriller starring the actor at the peak of his powers and a particularly swoon-worthy pea coat. There was Bond carrying Billy Reid in Sky Fall, a scene-stealing cameo-style that is still making numbers today, and led to an immediate increase in sales for the brand when the film debuted. (Fun fact: in a happy coincidence, the coat is actually named after Reid’s Bond Street store, not 007.) And now there’s Chris Pine, pictured yesterday in London. All the old knives, an upcoming film adaptation of Olen Steinhauer’s novel of the same name. And the list, dear reader, goes on.
Pine proves that the great tradition of leading men playing spy-type guys in great peacoats is alive and well, thank you very much. (Hell, this isn’t even the actor’s first onscreen link to the figure – he wore a more boxer version of the style during the equally awkward Jack Ryan reboot in 2014.)
What, you might ask, has made the pea coat such a mainstay of a specific type of action movie over the decades? On the one hand, its military heritage makes it an obvious choice for costume designers who want to imbue their characters with a touch of old-school macho charm. (Wearing one layered over a chunky ribbed turtleneck, as Pine does here, only further underscores the style’s naval origins.) In the right context, a pea coat serves as an instant visual cue for the audience, shortened for the guy. IRI’s hardened experience that comes with hunting down bad guys bent on global destruction for a living.
A pea coat bestows good faith on a serious spy. Its bold lapels and double-breasted silhouette make it a particularly cinematic style that doesn’t lose any of its shine onscreen, and its sturdy construction is perfectly suited for hiding in dimly-lit street corners while you wait for your. foreign fixer falls. on those falsified documents that you requested. In other words, he’s practically a character on his own.
And if Pine has a say in it, that won’t change anytime soon.
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