We’re digging deeper where we still are, says Christopher Nying, Creative Director at Our Legacy, again seeking local inspiration. For the fall, he takes us back to his hometown of Husqvarna to tell another Swedish story. This one talks about the intersection of residential school teens with the local punk scene, led by bands like Asta Kask and Strebers. It’s a story of quick improvisation, shirts tied at the waist meeting eyeliner and studs, rugby shirts, motorcycle jackets, tweed, leather. It is also a story based on Nyings’ personal experiences, which brings a sense of authenticity to the collection.
To extend that sense of reality, there’s the inclusion of teaser pieces, in the form of modified vintage motorcycle jackets, from an upcoming collaboration between OL and Eva Jangen, a local vintage dealer. The opening look, for example, features a sarong and leather pants paired with a 1955 jacket customized by Nying. A good start for a winning collection.
Fall, according to the show’s notes, is about reverse conservatism, but Nying is doing more than just overturning the traditional. Rather, punk and prep is taken apart and reassembled in new ways, and many of these transformations are material-driven, starting with leather, real and fake, as well as mud-dyed silk that looks like leather. These smooth surfaces are combined with textured surfaces: shearling and soft alpaca. Boiled wool forms the body of the updated, oversized rugby tops; Corduroy is used for the costume and a tailored corset top. Swedish tweeds are mixed and matched. Returning by popular demand, spring-printed (rather than dyed) denim, notes brand co-founder and CEO Jockum Hallin. A dialogue between the prep / punk tropes and between the materials really animates this line-up in which the fabrications and the silhouettes are coherent between the sexes.
It is perhaps no coincidence that this collection, perhaps the most unisex brand to date, finally achieves a satisfactory integration of the men’s and women’s lines. Nying says he’s found a feminine nerve for menswear. Having done so, he seems to have set out to do the opposite with women’s clothing, but this is a false equivalence. The intention of OL has never been to design women’s clothing for men, but rather to apply a sensibility to men’s fashion that defines masculinity in a more nuanced way and allows for some sort of interval or blurring of lines. kind. Moreover, power is not necessarily an antonym for the feminine; what OL continue to show is that there is strength to be found in softness, no matter who wears the pants or the skirt.
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