In a pre-pandemic world, Maisie Wilen would celebrate her fourth collection with a New York Fashion Week runway show, but in 2021, virtual experiences are the norm. As such, Wilen decided to pay homage to the track in a special video created to showcase its fall lineup. In the clip, the models walk down a liquid runway as a soundtrack of whispers plays in the background mimicking IRL audience reactions and community aspects of Fashion Month. The visuals, which see the cast walking on water in a range of prints, seem dreamlike, but the designers’ starting point was rooted in current reality. I was focused on comfort and fit, Wilen said. I was responding and berating both the overwhelming call for comfort clothing within the industry. I’m known for her going out looks, and I was thinking, what would be as special as a party look? while responding to my client’s current situation, outfits that can go from quarantine to post-quarantine life.
Playing with these ideas meant juxtaposing formal and informal elements. The neon fabrics of the retro windbreakers have been repurposed into blazer and skirt sets ideal for the office or Zoom meetings. Reflective motocross-inspired pieces gave a nod to 80s-style sportswear, while body-hugging jumpsuits and leggings kept body awareness in mind. Each piece was covered in punchy prints that have become Wilens’ signature. The result of hours spent fine-tuning details in Photoshop and Illustrator, they typically range from geometric to psychedelic. This trick Wilens took a different approach, weaving together several fabrics to form quilting patterns. In a section she dubbed non-fiction, details of the collection were scrawled on T-shirts and tops alongside QR codes. It’s about the contrast between natural and technological images, Wilen explained. Scan the code on the garment and it will take you to the product page on our website. They are meant to be visually appealing and simultaneously bring the wearer back to reality.
In clearer weather, Wilens’ vision for fall would be ideal for moving from club to club, but in 2021, clothing offers a bit of escape. It’s easy to imagine dancing the night away in one of her crushed-velor crop tops or trippy lava print pants. While pieces like jacquard overcoats and athletic suits seem intended for a Bella Hadid paparazzi stroll or related outdoor activity, the majority could be enjoyed at home. Tangerine tie-dye sweatpants and zigzag covered leggings would undoubtedly break up the monotony of the work-at-home wardrobe.
As a member of the Millennial or the first wave of Gen Z, depending on your chart, Wilen is uniquely prepared to meet the needs of young consumers. Those who grew up with Delias catalogs will feel a touch of nostalgia looking at her keyhole tops and the pastel-meet-neon color combinations that make up the seasons palette. Even if you haven’t, designs are sure to thrive online, where Instagram and TikTok updates are now the top reasons to dress up. As avant-garde as Wilens’ fashions are, she can’t wait to make her clients feel exceptional, no matter what the future holds. [Our] customers are drawn to us for their special occasions, she says. They seem drawn to our dresses for their special moments, so I want to keep that particularity, even if they just want to take a nice photo at home.
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