Kimberly Goldson began designing her new collection just after hearing that Saks had chosen her eponymous clothing line. After nearly a decade in business, his dream had come true. So, as she told The Daily Beast last week, her fall collection reflects where [the brand] has been hidden from view, but people are finally learning about who we are. We feel seen, but we always moved incognito.
That, along with calls for support for black designers following the death of George Floyd last summer, inspired Goldson to create his Stealth Print. She hid her golden KG logo in bold geometric prints to symbolize how the brand hid in plain sight before activists found them. It is not logomania, exactly you won’t notice the letters unless you look very closely. Ultimately, bespoke pieces are independent. It’s a great mix of pandemic-friendly pieces like joggers and loose day dresses that exude comfortable glamor. Alaina Demopoulos
Najla and Cynthia Burt, the mother / daughter duo behind Dur Doux, have never been against drama in their creations. The brand is known for its looks that are purely dramatic: layers of shocking neon tulle and fast trains are as natural to them as a little black dress. It’s all a lot of fun and always apparent in the fall collection, although Dur Doux has added a touch of realism just a touch that serves them well.
The collection, shot in DCs Perry Belmont House, includes an extremely glamorous range of more wearable pieces, like knit bike shorts, a pleated chocolate faux leather skirt, and canary yellow jacquard pants in a bird print that this writer would choose from. to live if given the opportunity. Prediction: One of the more editorial looks, like the lattice cutout bodysuit or the wrap-around tulle bodysuit, will be featured in a music video by the end of the year. Stylists, I challenge you! A D
Longtime fur master Dennis Basso is usually big at New York Fashion Week, always has: gorgeous surroundings, Upper East Side ladies and Real Housewives in the front row. But the pandemic has reduced operations; Basso’s video was shot in his New York studio, where he proudly notes that everything was designed and made.
Two models pose in the stairwell of the studio to model the 20 looks and more; yes, the color and drama is still there in the sequence of the zchuched-up hooded coats and belted trenches. It just seems stifled by a pandemic. Instead of glitter, there’s accessible portability and polished pops of color.
Centered on the brand’s heritage, this particular line, say the show’s notes, is made up primarily of outerwear and fur in addition to a capsule collection of evening and second-hand daywear. Luxurious cashmere, plaids and velvets are artfully combined with sheared mink, fisherman, fox, chinchilla, broad and sable. Like so many designers, Basso is determined to keep going, but watching it on video also makes you hope for the return of bigger stages, brighter lights, and wacky buzz as soon as possible. Tim teeman
Alice + Olivia
Stacy Bendets Alice + Olivia is known for her maximalist presentations during Fashion Week, long eschewing the traditional catwalk for a more immersive experience. Her Tuesday online presentation stayed true to form thanks to a boisterous, modern reverie by Marie-Antoinette, who, like her old IRL presentations, showcased not only line fashion but her complete aesthetic.
Bendets models strolled the streets of New York dressed in an array of 1990s grunge dating speculators, romantic French court outfits with tons of tartan, pleated mini skirts, houndstooth jackets , lace, reptile skin and dreamy jacquard dresses and glittering pleated silks. . To complete the Marie-Antoinette vibe, models wore choker necklaces and tiaras as they threw themselves on antique sofas and tossed out the petits fours. Bendet has always done maximalism as a nobodies business, and her collection and presentation this year has been a beautiful escape into an exuberant world of pretty. Sarah shears
Like many of us, Sandy Liang reflected on her past in quarantine. Specifically, she dates back to her childhood as the daughter of Chinese immigrants living in Bayside, Queens. I think about what my mother wore when I was growing up, and I couldn’t understand why she always went back to her staples: shearling-lined mules, unflattering corduroy pants and puffy vests, Liang wrote in the notes from the show. When I look at my closet today, I have to admit that I often come back to the same things.
There were plenty of childish silhouettes in the fall line-up that evoke the kind of ’90s nostalgia so often produced by kids who grew up, but weren’t adults, at that time. Think: black pleather longline Matrix jackets, fleeces paired with schoolgirl skirts and lots of pleats. It was so Reality hurts had been redone on TikTok. An exceptional one, why has no one thought of it yet? piece was a fleece dress on top, black prairie skirt on bottom. Cool kids obsessed with comfort won’t be able to resist. A D
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