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New York Fashion Week Mens Day Hints at the Evolution of Menswear

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What will men’s fashion look like in 2021? Cultural ideas of what is considered masculine are changing, as are traditional ideas of dress. Let’s take the last sewing season as proof: bespoke men’s clothing found its way into the collections of Valentino, Giambattista Valli and Fendi for a week usually reserved for women’s clothing.

The emerging designers of New York Fashion Week Mens Day may exemplify changing views on menswear. Many of them offered genderless collections, while others launched women’s clothing lines alongside their men’s clothing. Others have found inspiration in the past to lead us towards a more harmonious future. Here, six new names to watch out for.

Photo: Courtesy of Chelsea Grays

Chelsea Grays

Why would anyone want to relive the trials of 2020? For Chelsea Grays, the sad year had some silver linings. With the drastic changes of 2020, it showed me that nothing is everlasting and that the unexpected is to be expected, says Grays. Vogue. There were personal challenges I had to face and it was time to lead. This season, the unisex brand has stayed close to its roots of political and social commentary. Photographed in the streets of Paris, each upcycled look reflects a specific struggle: coronavirus, climate change, and questions of voting and racial injustice. Made in an abstract and clever way, the Grayss are pieces worthy of attention.

Photo: courtesy of Federico Cina

Photo: courtesy of Federico Cina

Photo: courtesy of Federico Cina

Federico China

The asexual brand Federico Cinas is based in Milan. Its new collection is inspired by Per Strada, a series of photographs taken by photographer Guido Guidi from 1980 to 1994 on Via Emilia cities, and the ample sets are indeed a nod to the daily glamor of the fashion capitals. Italian.

Photo: Courtesy of Ka Wa Key

Photo: Courtesy of Ka Wa Key

Photo: Courtesy of Ka Wa Key

Photo: Courtesy of Ka Wa Key

Ka Wa Key

Fantasy and reality have always been argued as opposing themes, but London designers Key Chow and Jarno Leppanen play by harmoniously combining the two in one. Their playful new collection, Through the Looking Glass, is inspired by characters like Willy Wonka, Peter Pan, The Mad Hatter and Schitts Creeks Moira Rose. The imagination is not tied to a time or a place; it is universal and for everyone, they say. This season, the duos have imagined reality is one characterized by reinvented knits, colorful prints and oversized silhouettes.

Photo: Courtesy of KoH T

Photo: Courtesy of KoH T

Photo: Courtesy of KoH T

KoH T

Guided by the ideas of yin and yang, Japanese label KoH T embodies the idea that everything in this world is originally beautiful. For Fall 2021, designer Taisuke Kohji took inspiration from the work of Honami Koetsu, a Japanese craftsman from the 1500s, creating a monochromatic and utilitarian collection designed to resemble traditional Japanese paper crafts. What KoH T and Koetsu have in common is that they both seek to produce a product of the highest quality by designing familiar objects with innovative ideas, Kohji says. The collection has been photographed in a mix of urban and rural settings proving that KoH Ts clothing will work in any environment.

Photo: courtesy of ONYRMRK

Photo: courtesy of ONYRMRK

Photo: courtesy of ONYRMRK

Onyrmark

Rwang Pam and Mark Kim from Onyrmark (pronounced on your brand) reinvent normality for fall 2021. The clothes are a direct nod to relaxed ’90s silhouettes and use only natural fabrics. It’s not so much the optimism that is important, but rather the resilience and strength we have gained through the mutual support of those around us, which is more enduring, especially as people of color, says. the duo. That’s why this season our collection, called Kinship, portrays the strength of the bond between people within a community.

Photo: courtesy of The Stolen Garment

Photo: courtesy of The Stolen Garment

Photo: courtesy of The Stolen Garment

The stolen garment

A trip to a second-hand bookstore inspired the first New York Fashion Week collection by The Stolen Garment designer Jungwoo Parks. In the dusty adult book section of the store, Park was struck by the tragic emotion of ’90s book titles with words and phrases like passion, delinquent, and end of the world. He’s translated this into his range through spiked crowns, rope harnesses, ponchos, and even a dress adorned with protruding green mushrooms. According to the Korean designer, the books produce an untranslatable feel that was reflected in Parks’ original clothing.

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