Nostalgia, durability and the enduring love of the designers for New York City permeated the Fall / Winter 21-22 collections presented at Virtual New York Men’s Day on Monday.
In a collection called “Doldrums,” Carter Young designer Carter Altman showcased moody but wearable pieces such as flannel shirts, a velor blazer, a paneled jacket and minimalist denim shirts with matching jeans.
In the accompanying video for the collection, Interpol frontman Paul Banks modeled the collection and talked about going to Zabar’s for bagels and spending time in Central Park as a kid on trips. as a family, and how as an adult, the city represents a place to build dreams and never “question the things that make you smile”.
Designer Teddy Vonranson echoed this love for New York in his collection called “Manhattan Island”. Vonranson described the collection as an “optimistic love letter” to the city he cherishes, told through a combination of East Coast and West Coast references that have become his signature.
“And although we feel like we have lost the vibrant energy that is New York’s signature, the colors are still there for those who have the eyes to see and make the effort to use their imaginations,” did he declare.
The designer has gone for a warm, festive vibe that he typically reserves for a holiday wardrobe by playfully combining traditional English tweeds and checks with Hawaiian rayon prints. Key looks include an emerald green suede jacket over a yellow wool sweater and a palm leaf shirt; a pink wool suit over a mauve sweater; a red wool suit over a beige nubuck shirt; and a jade wool jacket juxtaposed with a black Hawaiian print – a nod to the city lights at night.
Timo Weiland has established a cool and effortless dress code for pandemic fashion rooted in casual jeans and t-shirts dressed in blazers. The blazers, however, felt personality with dusty pink and two-tone toppers leading the way.
Aaron Potts, a Brooklynite and founder of A.Potts, was also inspired by his home. For the F / W 21-22 collection called “Shadowlight”, the designer explored the city of New York in the 1980s, the Soho nabe in particular, through an artistic lens “drawing inspiration from the moving spirit of New Romantic by Jody Watley and evolved classicism. of modern American dance.
The collection aimed “to create presence in the juxtaposition of light and dark; claiming space in the dark through lightness and positivity, ”according to the brand.
A. Potts’ iconic voluminous and sculptural silhouettes, spanning unisex one-piece rompers, tunic dresses, wide leg pants and outerwear, are accented with crisp, airy fabrics to inspire movement. Shades of black, charcoal and silver are electrified with sunshine yellow and sulfur orange hallmarks. Ethereal bottoms and jerseys paired with more structured wools and basic knits.
The Stolen Garment collection, titled “Lost in Translation,” was inspired by designer Woo Parks’ trip with friends to a second-hand bookstore in Seoul. “Browsing through the dusty section of the store’s adult books, the creator was inspired by the tragic emotion of every word that made up the titles of these books, most of which were published in the ’90s,” according to notes by the show.
Stan’s Tristan Detwiler designer collection “Treasures of the Quilters of History” captures the comforting spirit of the house with its collection of seasonless, gender-neutral clothing, made from recycled vintage fabrics. As part of the brand’s storytelling mission, details of the origin of the fabric are provided for most unique garments.
The new collection continues to emphasize Detwiler’s approach to construction, which focuses on craftsmanship, mending and quilting. Pieces include a crochet tank top / vest, a patchwork corduroy zip-up jacket, woolen shorts and jackets, and a range of quilted jackets and pants.
Federico Cina has shown that the brand is focused on tailoring with woolen shirts and flabby pants, as well as more contemporary pieces like exaggerated lapel coats and oversized vests. The video presentation highlighted the collection’s gender duality, with images of men and women wearing similar pieces, spliced side by side.
The brand interpreted its Romagnola print, symbol of passion, family, dedication and trust, as an oversized knitted sweater and cardigan. The print also appears on button-down shirts and sweatshirts and t-shirts suitable for pandemics.
For her eponymous label, political designer Chelsea Grays combined autumn checks and plaids with deconstructed and destroyed knit tunics, military green jackets, and pants with gathered seams. Throws have also added warmth to Onyrmrk’s casual collection. The Los Angeles-based brand focused on loose layered pieces with a nod to workwear.
And don’t underestimate the influence of streaming services, especially during a year of social distancing. For their F / W 21-22 collection, the designers of Ka Wa Key Key Chow and Jarno Leppanen reflected on the imaginative worlds they visited and on characters, like Willy Wonka, Moira Rose and Peter Pan, that they met through screens. “Television and music were a great inspiration and offered an escape from reality, the opportunity to meet different personalities who gave us hope and a variety of amazing places to visit,” said the designers. in a press release.
Soft and fluffy knits using mostly Responsible Standard Mohair make up the majority of the flowy genre colorful collection. It also includes seven pieces designed in conjunction with Japanese fabric maker Toray using durable stretch fabrics from its Primeflex product line.
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