They say the best is usually saved for last, and that was the case when designer Willy Chavarria’s digital presentation for his fall collection peaked the short week, at least on the menswear front. Oh how New York Fashion Week missed Willy. After taking a brief break from the show schedule, Chavarria returned to present a tight lineup of his ‘classics’, but in a more refined and uncluttered manner, cementing notions of endurance and survivalism and how those elements define. where we are all right now in our state of being, given the uncertain times.
This season, Chavarria has put emphasis on silhouette, fabric and structure, which has allowed her to think of things other than the clothes themselves. Her goal was clear: to challenge the silhouettes themselves, round, triangular and rectangular, all to the extreme, for example a thick twill skirt, bulbous pants, overcoats with wide cuffs, pants with flies and asymmetric pleats, and even T- shirts (like a cropped cholo striped version) that feature versatile, round and square shapes, all mostly made from recycled fibers (like blends of wools with marine plastics ).
The pieces were meant to be timeless and egalitarian without all the tips and tricks, forgoing the heavy logos or bold graphics we’ve seen in previous collections, and meant to fit a variety of body types, not to mention that they also embody a genderless nuance without having to label it as such.
Chavarria’s collections always contain elements of ‘chicanism’, and the brand’s philosophy has always been rooted in helping others while promoting inclusiveness. This season he decided to collaborate with the Mexican artist. Carlos Graciano, also known as @ sadpapi666 on Instagram (the platform the duo met through). Both fans of each other, Graciano provided the spirit of the 1990s with the masculine graphics he commissioned for two styles of t-shirts: “We’ve always been for the cause more than clothes, we love clothes too, but it’s always been more of a vehicle for expressing social justice, ”the designer said via a Zoom call.
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