Please watch the Saul Nashs video before reading any more word.The. If you never go back on this attempt to put his film into words, it doesn’t matter: because whoever you are, you will have felt it and will not forget it. Which is more than enough for an emerging young designer like Saul Nash to have signaled his intention. Then again, there is no one like Saul, who besides being a sportswear designer, is a dancer, choreographer, movement director for other designers, and leader and spokesperson for the Sweet Brotherhood of his young peers badly judged.
It all goes on without a word in the video he named Twist, made with filmmaker FX Cody, partner of Nashs. It begins with a boy group scene, in which the two exchanges are face to face, gesturing into each other. Doing this is about a lot of things that I have been through myself. Often times when you see men in a group there is a preconceived idea of what you think of them. You never see the nuances and the middlemen. So I wanted to bring up that twist on the movie, where you expect one thing about these people, but watching the movie further, your ideas about them are completely lifted. The twist in the tension is that the two men, instead of hitting each other or pulling knives or guns, begin to kiss. It’s a long, tender and beautiful kiss. You think there will be an altercation, but what is being built is a moment of love. Two men kissing is pretty taboo where I’m from, says Nash. So seeing the friends around them accept and kiss him was the key.
Nash grew up in North London and went to a school where there were Turkish boys, black boys, white boys. I wanted them to feel like ordinary people. I have found that much of my work evokes feelings about the men I grew up among, he said. I want to spread the word: don’t judge a book by its cover. There have been a lot of men around me who have overturned my idea of what they would think of my sexuality.
The book covers his clothes are an evolution of the ergonomic sportswear he developed through his MA at the London Royal College of Art, and three subsequent seasons under the incubator Lulu Kennedys Fashion East. He is now on his own, but has secured a six-month residency, with a studio at Somerset House. Yeah, I’m really happy. I feel like there is a global mind, that when something might flow, the mind brings us back and makes sure we move on.
As a dancer, he applies his internal knowledge of performance to transformable builds by inserting ventilation zones and quick-release zippers for bodies in action. In his mission to elevate the canon of sportswear as a functional and desirable fashion, it also addresses the environmental issues inherent in the use of synthetics. Hes introduced organic cotton and replaces microfiber-releasing materials as much as possible, using branded technical materials such as Primaloft which is partially made from recycled materials.
Taking responsibility for saying things that enhance social good, as well as working to mitigate the ecological impact is Saul Nash everywhere. He brings a message and a practice to his work that, with the men he throws and the cohort of black British designer friends involved in the production of his films, resonates far beyond London. Yes, I grew up in London, but it’s a universal story. I think that should speak to any man in cities all over the world, he thinks. There are parallels that come together everywhere.
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