Molly Goddard has been busy choosing paint colors and putting the finishing touches on her Fall / Winter 2021 collection. Her East London studio has undergone a colorful renovation to serve as the backdrop for her Fashion film London Week. The shade of paint in question? Slightly dull yellow, she laughs.
In the days leading up to the first of the collections, Vogue asked Goddard to keep a diary of what goes into the making of the Lina dress.
© Arthur Williams
I’m so excited for this, Goddard says of the movie his upcoming Lina dress (a tonal tulle masterpiece) is set to star in. Add to that the fact that the designer is also eight and a half months pregnant with her first child, and the excitement is peaking. In the days leading up to the first of the collections, Vogue asked Goddard to keep a diary of what goes into the making of the Lina dress in an effort to answer questions that have bothered us since Rihanna first stepped out in a zesty Goddard dress in May 2016 How? ‘Or’ What does she make her dresses? And how long does it take everyone to create?
The final ingredients of any monumental Goddard dress? Spontaneity and instant joy.
Two days ago, a crisp screenshot of a model wearing the finished dress landed in my inbox, alongside a neat list of secret details revealing its inner workings. Today we’re making up for it via an old-fashioned phone call to unearth the last ingredients of any monumental Goddard dress: spontaneity and instant joy.
I like designing large dresses because the process is pretty instantaneous, compared to the more laborious process of tailoring or shirting design, where you’ll have to make a canvas and have five separate fittings, Goddard explains. We often don’t do canvas for these dresses, go ahead.
Each Lina ruffle dress takes around a day and a half to make, using the designer’s signature stiff Italian tulle (around 13m of fabric, to be exact). Goddards’ golden rule when it comes to scaling? Generally, the bigger the dress, especially tulle, the more I like the process. I really like the volume side of the design.
Beneath the thief stage drama of the creators of subversive fairy tale dresses, you will find intricate and hidden details, right down to the hand smocked belt. Her trick for creating that magical (and much imitated) Molly Goddard bounce? The hem of the smocking meets a large bubble skirt slightly shorter in the front and covered with ruffles, giving a soft and irregular silhouette.
Molly Goddard fall / winter 2021.
© Arthur Williams
Color, of course, plays a big role. Prior to Covid-19, the dress moment signaled the final on the Goddards LFW catwalks and drew audible gasps from the FROW sashaing the dress along the minimalist white runway like the first paint spot on a bare canvas. The colors come very naturally, I guess. I don’t really think about it, she adds.
Goddard first devised the technique of mixing adjacent tulle shades in tone-on-tone ruffle patterns for Spring / Summer 2021. This dress is coral pink, with red dots in the bust. [theres a matching counterpart in azure and sky blue within the autumn/winter 2021 collection] then a black petticoat. The success of the final color comes in the form of ultra-refined gold platform boots, a renegade pair that exploits the high-jink vibe that was lacking today.
Each dress takes around a day and a half to make, using the designer’s signature stiff Italian tulle (around 13m of fabric, to be exact).
© Ben Broomfield
Hope it escalates this summer, says Goddard of our collective desire to realize the power of fashion escape. I know this will be for me, I am desperate to wear fun things. When I think of all the pieces I kept for a special time and haven’t worn yet Why are we doing this? Never again. I’ll wear big taffeta dresses to go everywhere.
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