British designer Molly goddard has been busy picking out paint colors and putting the finishing touches on her fall 2021 collection, her east London studio has undergone a colorful renovation to serve as the backdrop for her London Fashion Week film. The shade of paint in question? A slightly dull yellow, she laughs.
I’m so excited for this, Goddard says of the movie, in which her Lina dress, a tone-on-tone tulle masterpiece, is expected to star. Add to the fact that the designer is also
eight and a half months pregnant with her first child, and the excitement peaked. In the days leading up to the first of the collections, Vogue asked Goddard to keep a diary of what went into the making of her showstopper dress in an effort to answer questions that have preoccupied us since Rihanna first stepped out in a Goddard zinging dress in May 2016: How? ‘Or’ What does she make her dresses? And how long does it take everyone to create?
Two days ago, a crisp screenshot of a model wearing the finished dress landed in my inbox, alongside a neat list of secret details revealing its inner workings. Today we’re making up for it via an old-fashioned phone call to unearth the last ingredients of any monumental Goddard dress: spontaneity and instant joy.
I like to design large dresses because the process is quite instant compared to the more laborious process of tailoring or shirting, where you will need to make a canvas and have five separate fittings, Goddard explains. We will often not do canvas for these dresses; well go ahead.
Each ruffled Lina dress takes about a day and a half to make, using about 13 yards of the designers’ favorite stiff Italian tulle. Goddards’ golden rule when it comes to scaling? Generally, the bigger the dress, especially tullet, the more I like the process. I really like the volume side of the design.
Beneath the thief-scene drama of her subversive fairy-tale dresses, you’ll find intricate and hidden details including a hand-smocked belt. Her trick for creating that magical (and much imitated) Molly Goddard bounce? The hem of the smocking meets a large bubble skirt slightly shorter in the front and covered with ruffles, giving a soft and irregular silhouette.
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