Day two, and the London Fashion Week frenzy is usually in full swing. Come 11am, you’re on your second show of the day, espresso in hand, and listen to a group of influencers speculating on who will replace Anna Wintour at American.Vogue. The show is late, of course, because the editor of She is stuck in traffic, a mannequin has not appeared, and another person passively-aggressively asks the PR why he was not seated in the front row as agreed. You will see this happen about three times today. At least you would if it wasn’t for the pandemic.
As the capital enters its second day of the very first digital-only fashion week, the surrealism of it all begins to kick in. Because today should be a busy schedule, featuring top brands like Alexachung, Mary Katrantzou and Jasper Conran. Unfortunately, none of the labels mentioned above participate in the debates this year. Just like other big hitters (JW Anderson, Christopher Kane and Erdem) are notably absent from the remaining days of the calendar.
That’s not to say that nothing is happening, however. This year, the reduced schedule still features some key players, including Molly Goddard and Simone Rocha, and shows are still happening. It’s just that, rather than rushing through London and crushing ourselves between strangers, watching them from our living rooms, where the most painful trip to do well will be between the couch and the kettle.
The process began with a minimalism masterclass at palmer // harding, whose fall / winter 2021 collection was inspired by the emotions of falling in love. It’s a subtle message, woven into delicate rope-tie dresses and smock-shaped shirts that evoke the kind of clothing worn by garment workers in the 18th century, when romance revolved around courting. an archaic dating ritual that has seen an unlikely resurgence due to lockdown restrictions imposed during the pandemic.
Elsewhere, across a humble palette of camels, creams, and sky blues, the collection included a series of striped culottes, baggy suits and double-breasted trench coats perfectly suited for social distancing socializing. But it was the two-piece leather, consisting of a belted shirt and pants, that caught our attention. Structured in cut and tightened with dramatic low pom poms, this burnt toast color set is exactly the kind of statement we plan to make at the pub as soon as the lock comes up.
The brand has also stepped up its sustainability efforts this season and is committed to prioritizing environmentally friendly materials, like organic cotton and sustainable viscose. In addition, starting this season, palmer // harding has pledged to contribute 1 for every garment produced to a social cause. The first charity to benefit from the initiative is Chayn.co, a survivor-led network that addresses gender-based violence and supports people experiencing domestic violence.
Then that was off and when we say off we mean move our mouse and click a different link on the British Fashion Council website to 16Arlington, the cool-girl brand famous for their feathered dresses. The label is run by a designer duo – and real couple – Marco Capaldo and Federica Cavenati, who this season took inspiration from the work of French artist Hubert Duprat, known for his work Caddis in which he captures the Caddisfly insects. larvae and provides them with protective cocoons made from gold leaf, opals, coral and diamonds.
This idea of trapping seemed premonitory given the current climate, and the 16Arlingtons fall / winter collection is inspired by this by covering his signature ostrich feathers in a delicate net on several pieces, including a dramatic burnt orange coat with a trim in feathers and a black mesh overlay. . Elsewhere, there were equally flamboyant designs in the form of a leather and marabou dress, gigantic puffy coats, and pencil skirts in cobalt blue patent leather.
The intricacies of Duprats’ work have been achieved through glitter patterns and shimmering velvet highlights. Ruffles found themselves draped over everything from blazers and slacks to strapless dresses, while oddly placed sashes (think thighs) provided an unexpected silhouette. The palette was as brash as the designs themselves, with electric blues offsetting the blazing orange undertones.
Finally, the day ended with one of the highlights of Fashion Weeks: Molly Goddard. This season, the revered London-based designer was inspired by the portrayal of paid families seen in a variety of books she had at home, including Tina Barneys.Europeans, David Douglas Duncans Goodbye Picasso and, oddly enough, a selection of DIY books. I love watching people (especially families) of all generations and how they wear clothes, says Goddard. The contrast between characters and styles. A glamorous smoking grandmother, a sulky teenage son, an old man in tweed and a young girl proudly ready for a night out.
This cast of animated characters is manifested by Goddard in a collection showcased by a series of prom dresses reimagined in the designers’ signature crisp tulle. There are strapless scarlet styles with ruffled skirts, lime green long sleeve deals, and a vibrant cobalt blue style with a gathered waistline. There are also more structured offerings, some of which were seen last season, like a fuchsia tiered skirt dress topped with a sleeveless mesh bodice. There is a harshness to Goddard this season, however, as she notes how the tulle dress gets so loud and banging that it’s almost ugly as if mirroring the year before.
Elsewhere, the traditionally British aesthetic has been reinvented in the form of pink herringbone tweed miniskirts and colorful tartan smocks in red and pink tones. And fuzzy flowers were seen on the puff-sleeved dresses as the socks were rolled up to the knees and laced in leather. The show, which aired on BFC’s website and filmed at the Brands Studio in Bethnal Green, captured the brand’s playful spirit through a series of dynamic shots and a soundtrack of classic piano trills. , the kind that a child might try to reproduce after spending. one more day at home.
It seems the monotony of the pandemic is affecting Goddard as well. I’m tired of seeing leggings and black puffer jackets to walk around the park, she wrote in the show’s notes. The pieces in this collection are meant to celebrate and enjoy. Every element could have been passed down from generation to generation, and we hope so now. Durable yet spicy wardrobe classics.
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