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Fashion East RTW Fall 2021 – WWD




This season’s Fashion East showcase lineup included Maximilian Davis, Nensi Dojaka, Goom, newcomers Jawara Alleyne and accessories brand HRH. The emerging designer support platform also posted a cheerful behind-the-scenes video documenting their socially distant shooting process.

After launching her brand during the pandemic last season, Davis said the fall 2021 collection was “a continuation of black elegance and explores my grandmother’s emigration from Trinidad to England in the 1960s” , with an emphasis on psychedelic prints and unisex tailoring.

Dojaka is inspired by an exhibition with the works of Hilma af Klint at the Serpentine Gallery in London years ago. “Those beautiful, super-fine feminine lines running through the huge canvases were a trigger for the first curtains I made on the mannequin,” she said. Highlights include tulle corsets paired with tailored pants and one of the light, flare dresses with double bra details, which is the designer’s first draped dress for the collection.

South Korean designer Goom Heo’s label this season centers around horror-themed sculptures by artist Philip Jackson. “His work is enormous and made of bronze. For me, his sculptures were really cold and sharp and I wanted to reflect that mood in the collection. In addition, the graphics and the contrasting color combination or texture of the fabric were inspired by the 1920s film “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari”, in terms of shadows and shadows moving around the body, “a Goom said. A key look in the range is a full-length black hooded wool coat and monochrome mohair pieces.

Raised in Jamaica and the Cayman Islands, Alleyne is a 2020 graduate of Central Saint Martins MA Fashion. She showcased her collection via a video of a captain’s fictional journey on his ship “The Renegade” as they continued to save the “Sun City”. Characters include the crew, who wears recycled leather pants with a draped top wrapped around the waist and a white top, and the board, whose approach is much more elegant and chic. “The video crescendos with this meditation between aggressiveness and joy. I love playing with juxtaposed emotions to ask the viewer to draw their own conclusion, ”she said.

HRH’s new line of accessories is inspired by the designer’s love for “gymnastics and figure skating, sports teams and the way their adornments unite them.” Key pieces include puffed silk and sheepskin and power knit scrunchy thongs.

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